1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC - PATIENCE

Wendouree needs no introduction to followers of Australian wine. Simply put, it is a ‘one of a kind’, producing long-lived, savoury wines that have their own distinctive identity. As many notes on these pages demonstrated, aged Wendouree can be something special – refined yet rustic, delicate yet enormously powerful, savoury and intellectual.

This bottle of Wendouree Cabernet Malbec was broached with great anticipation, but didn’t quite deliver. Aromatically, it was rather reticent, gentle notes of gravel, charcoal and graphite. By Wendouree standards, the palate was slightly sweet-fruited, perhaps a marker of the 1998 vintage.

The tannins of youth have melted back, but we are yet to see secondary evolution of note. One suspects a few more years in the cellar might be needed. Experience suggests that Wendouree wines reveal their greatest pleasure when at or near full maturity.

1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 May 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson through to the rim. Restrained nose of charcoal, wet earth, woodsmoke and black fruits. Medium bodied, surprisingly sweet-fruited up-front (by Wendouree standards), tannins have melted away. Dark fruits, graphite and charcoal. Little secondary evolution thus far. Revisit in a few years.
Score: 16/20

2005 CHATEAU CARONNE-STE-GEMME - UNDERDOG

Much has been said and written of the outstanding 2005 Bordeaux vintage. Unfortunately, the top wines of that year are still well off their drinking peal – patience will be required. With the neverending focus on the crus classes and their Right Bank equivalents, we often forget about the many hundreds of reliable, moderately priced wines from Bordeaux, wines that really delivered the goods in 2005.

Such is the case with Medoc property Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme. In magnum format, 2005 Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme is starting to come into its own. There’s primary fruit aplenty, but the tannins have all but fully resolved. Secondary complexity is starting to emerge in the shape of gravel, earth and tobacco.

This mightn’t be a life-changing wine, but it offers a lot in terms of digestibility and drinking enjoyment. What more can one ask, especially when the modest purchase price is taken into account?!

2005 CHATEAU CARONNE-STE-GEMME
Producer: Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 22 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Starting to show some signs of maturity – red and black fruits, dusty gravel, earth, tobacco. Medium bodied, elegant and silky. Stereotypical semi-mature Bordeaux. Understated yet authoritative. Very drinkable.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT - EASY LOVER

Henty-based Crawford River is the source of one of Australia’s best Rieslings. The estate has long produced a blend of Cabernet Sauvigon and Merlot. To some extent, it lives in the shadow of the exceptional Crawford River Riesling.

The 2012 Crawford River Cabernet Merlot, is a good, but not compelling wine. As one would expect given its cool climate origin, the wine is well composed, graceful and elegant. Although there are notes of pine resin and dusty herbs, the wine is by no means under-ripe.

All in all, this is a very sound wine; polite and easy to drink. It that sense, it serves its purpose. Those looking for an easy-going lunching Cabernet to enjoy with a Sunday roast could do a lot worse.

2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT
Producer: Crawford River
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 27 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Lifted nose of dusty herbs, blackcurrant and resin. Dry, medium bodied, very soft and supple, easy. Red fruits up-front, pencil shavings and pine resin. Gentle and polite. Ready to go.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 FREEHAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON - I'M FREE

Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t flavour of the month in Australia at present, lagging well behind Pinot Noir and Shiraz in the public’s consciousness. However, done well, Cabernet can be truly delicious, particularly as a dinner table wine alongside grilled and roasted meats.

This particular example, from biodynamic producer Freehand, is the essence of Cabernet with its blackcurrant fruit entwined with charcoal, lead pencil and tobacco. Drunk on its own, it won’t appeal to all comers, but with a rack of lamb, it really comes into its own.

Interestingly, the wine is labelled as being both biodynamic and preservative free. A rather abstract label further suggest that this could be quite an ‘off-beat’ wine. While one could be tempted to think that this is an off-beat wine with its heart on its natural wine sleeve, it is actually rather conventional, but in a good way. It’s rather delicious, especially given the price.

2014 FREEHAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Freehand
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 28 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Opaque deep crimson verging toward black. Very typical Cabernet Sauvignon nose of charcoal, tomato leaf, blackcurrant and tobacco. Dry, medium bodied, with sweet blackcurrant fruit to the fore, overlaid by charcoal and pencil shavings. Powdery tannins provide structure. Excellent value for money, with upside for medium term cellaring.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 BEST’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON - SIMPLY THE......

Best’s is one of the most loved family-owned wineries in Australia. With a nursery containing some of Australia’s oldest plantings, it is also of great historic importance. Shiraz from this part of the world is among the best in the country, cool climate elegance with depth and body.

Best’s Cabernet Sauvignon is a solid expression of the variety, more red fruit than black. It is a well made wine that will develop well in bottle over several years, but lacks the depth and varietal definition of the better examples of Cabernet from the Yarra Valley, Coonawarra and Margaret River.

2014 BEST’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Best’s
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 11 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson/cerise in appearance. Brooding nose of kirsch, cassis, mint/menthol and oak char. Dry, medium bodied, the flavour profile reflects the bouquet. Chalky tannins provide the structural framework. Solid, though not as compelling as Shiraz from the same address.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 DOMAINE A ‘PETIT A’ - FASHION

Tasmania’s Domaine A is one of the best sources of Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia. The estate’s Cabernet tends to have a very Bordeaux-like feel to them. Such is the case with the 2010 vintage release of ‘Petit A’, the sibling of the estate’s flagship.

Six years out from vintage, there is still a touch of gravelly tannin. The aromatic and flavour profile of the wine is prototypical Cabernet at its aristocratic best. Classy oak lends structure and complexity. Needless to say, there’s plenty to like here. 

Cabernet mightn't be queen in the fashion stakes at present, but who cares?  When it's good, it's simply wonderful to drink.

2010 DOMAINE A ‘PETIT A’
Producer: Domaine A
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 9 March 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Prototypical Cabernet nose of graphite, blackcurrant, tomato leaf and smoky oak. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. Slightly gravelly tannins provide structure. Quite St Estephe like – Bordeaux comes to Tassie!
Score: 17/20

2013 TERRE A TERRE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - EARTH SONG

Terre a Terre is the brainchild of corporate lawyer turned wine importer and winemaker. Xavier Bizot. As son-in-law of wine legend Brian Croser, Bizot has plenty to live up to, but it is fair to say he’s making some very smart wine.

Terre a Terre draws on fruit from a closely planted vineyard in Wrattonbully to the north of Coonawarra. Vinification is pretty standard for the Bordeaux varieties. However, when it comes to vinification, Bizot eschews traditionally favoured barriques, favouring large oak foudres. In the case of this wine, it seems to work, with the fruit to the fore, natural tannins letting their presence felt on the finish.

2013 TERRE A TERRE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Terre a Terre
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Wrattonbully, South Australia
ABV: 14.4%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 9 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep magenta. Intense nose of cassis, liqueur cherry, dusty herbs and freshly tilled earth. Dry, medium bodied. Cassis and liqueur cherry up-front moving to cool, dark and savoury on the mid-palate. Powdery tannins coat the mouth on the finish.
Score: 16.5+/20

2013 LADERAS DE MONTEJURRA ‘EMILIO VALERIO’ - UNDERDOG

When it comes to Spanish wine, Navarra is not the most fashionable region. It well and truly sits in the shade of established heavyweights Rioja and Ribera del Duero and the uber-trendy north-west.

Hot and dry, Navarra has long been a reliable source of solid table wines of all colours, often employing international varieties, sometimes alongside Tempranillo and Garnacha. Producers such as Laderas de Montejurra fly the flag for Navarra.

‘Emilio Valerio’, a three-way blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha is an exceptionally well balanced wine, one that favours savoury over sweet fruit. Medium weight in build, it is a little tight and backward on this showing, a touch less open for business than on another recent showing. That said, there is plenty to like and, as is often the case with Spanish wines, the value for money proposition is a strong one.


2013 LADERAS DE MONTEJURRA ‘EMILIO VALERIO’
Producer: Laderas de Montejurra
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha
Vintage: 2013
Region: Navarra, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, truffle, tilled earth, dusty dried herbs (bay, rosemary). Dry, medium bodied, savoury, slightly earthbound, powdery cocoa-like tannins suggest the wine will benefit from a few years bottle age. Solid.
Score: 16/20

2006 SAN LEONARDO - DIFFERENT CLASS

Beyond Bordeaux, there are certain places in world where Cabernet Sauvignon excels. The Napa Valley is one, as is the Tuscan coast. Trentino, it Italy’s cool north, is somewhat of an outlier.

Tenuta San Leonardo is situated at the foot of the Dolomite Alps, a relatively cool site where Cabernet Sauvignon just manages to reach full ripeness. At its best, San Leonardo is the equal of the very best wines of Bordeaux – the 2006 is at least of 2nd growth quality, albeit it is slimmer in build.

This is a class act, alluring in perfume, satin-like in texture, with super-fine tannins lending structure. It will reward another 10 years in bottle and will hold for another decade thereafter. At around $150 a bottle it is by no means cheap, but put into context, it represents exceptional value for money.

2006 SAN LEONARDO
Producer: Tenuta San Leonardo
Variety: Cabernet et al
Vintage: 2006
Region: Trentino, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $150.00
Date tasted: 24 June 2015

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Alluring nose of blackcurrant and plum, tilled earth, pencil shavings/graphite and woodsmoke. Medium bodied, elegant and very stylish – like a Valentino suit. Brilliant lustre. Satin-like; real sheen, polish and class. Tannins come to the fore with air. Needs another several years in bottle. Brilliant.
Score: 19/20

2009 CRITTENDEN ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 'LES ADIEUX' - GOOD IN GOODBYE

With many of its vineyards now fully mature, Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula has emerged as one of the key regions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (and Pinot Gris, if you must) outside of Burgundy. While best suited to varieties from the Burgundian family, a number of producers on the Peninsula have experimented and indeed persisted with varieties from further afield.

Gary Crittenden is an old timer when it comes to the grape growing on the Mornington Peninsula. As a peninsula pioneer, Crittenden played with a wide palette of grape varieties, among them Cabernet Sauvignon. To many, the notion of growing late-ripening Cabernet adjacent to Pinot Noir seems fanciful. One can only wonder how green and herbaceous Cabernet grown on the outskirts of Beaune would taste! But this is southern Australia, not cold continental France. Shiraz certainly ripens on certain sites on Mornington Peninsula (Paringa Estate, Paradigm Hill), so why not Cabernet Sauvignon?

2009 marked the death knell for Crittenden Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (hence the ‘Les Adieux’) but it certainly went out on a high. It is a stylish, svelte cool climate Cabernet that displays excellent varietal character with no suggestion of herbaceous. While there is an a clear affinity between Mornignton Peninsula and Burgundian varieties, the swansong vintage of Crittenden Estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon is proof positive that warmer sites are perhaps better suited to varieties that enjoy a long growing season under southern skies.

2009 CRITTENDEN ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON ‘LES ADIUEX’
Producer: Crittenden Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 31 October 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Attractive nose of cherry coulis/Morello cherry, cassis, licorice, cedar and smoky oak. Medium bodied, satin-like in texture. Sweet cherry/damson fruit up-front leading to crème de cassis on the mid-palate. Fine powdery tannins carry the finish which is long and fine.
Score: 16.5/20

2001 YARRA YARRA 'THE YARRA YARRA' - I WILL WAIT FOR YOU

The wines of premium Yarra Valley producer Yarra Yarra have featured on these pages on several occasions. Without exception, they have aged extremely well, displaying considerable finesse, elegance and complexity.

If this bottle is anything to judge things by, the 2001 The Yarra Yarra is yet to reveal its full potential. The wine certainly has the building blocks in the shape of bountiful blackcurrant/cassis and forward yet integrated smoky oak. While the tannic framework of youth has all but melted, there is a certain sense of reserve about this wine.

Based on past experience with this producer, one suggests exercising patience – further complexity is likely to develop with time. At this point in time, this pundit is prepared to reserve his judgement and wait another 3-4 years before cracking another bottle.

2001 YARRA YARRA 'THE YARRA YARRA'
Producer: Yarra Yarra
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon blend
Vintage: 2001
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 21 September 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Authoritative nose of cassis, graphite and woodsmoke. Medium bodied, soft and approachable, yet slightly confronting! Dry and savoury; blackcurrant and noticeable smoky oak. Although the tannins have resolved, there’s a sense that the wine is holding a bit back at present. Leave for another 3-4 years.
Score: 16+/20

2002 CHÂTEAU MUSAR - SWEET AND SOUR

There is little to be said about the great Lebanese estate Chateau Musar that hasn’t already been said and written many times over. In short, the 2002 release is in great form, distinctly Musar with its slight volatility on the nose and wonderful marriage of sweet, savoury and spice on the palate.

If anything, Musar tends to be slightly under-sold in Australia. Perhaps it’s just a bit too quirky for some? For those that know the style, the 2002 is bang on the money, and should reward cellaring from many years to come. For those that don’t. it’s well and truly time to get acquainted to one of the wine world’s true gems.

2002 CHÂTEAU MUSAR
Producer: Château Musar
Variety: Cabernet et al
Vintage: 2002
Region: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 27 July 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby red. Open and alluring nose of cherry, sweet plums, sandalwood, leather and exotic spices. Dry, medium bodied, relatively soft tannins, fine balanced acidity. Excellent fruit intensity in the form of a sweet red fruits. Spice on the nose flows through to the palate, lending genuine complexity and a touch of pizzazz!
Score: 17.5/20

2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY - ON THE UP!

The 2004 Bordeaux vintage was arguably the last ‘good value’ vintage in this great region. It lacked the star billing of 2005, 2009 and 2010 and hit the market at the time when Bordeaux was on the rise, but hadn’t gone crazy. If there is one word to describe 2004, it would have to be ‘classical’. It is a year of generally well proportioned wines with moderate alcohols, good concentration and balance.

While lacking the immense concentration, power and structure of truly great vintages, many 2004’s have shaped up rather well. A decade on from vintage and Château Batailley is starting to flesh out nicely. While the first bottle opened sadly reeked of corked taint, the second was textbook Left Bank Bordeaux just entering its drinking window.

In terms of colour, the wine is saturated crimson. The bouquet displays smoky oak intermingled with dusty blackcurrant fruit, confirming the wine’s relative youth. The wine has opened up somewhat compared to the last bottle enjoyed back in March 2012, but a touch of tannin on the back-palate suggest room for further evolution.

All in all, there’s plenty to like here, particularly in view of the fact that the wine was procured for around AUD300 for a case of 12 before taxes as part of the 2004 Bordeaux en-primeur campaign. While it mightn’t challenge for the title of ‘best ever’ or deliver a ’60 second finish’ it does what good wine should do; satisfy, create pleasure and put a smile on one’s face.

2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY
Producer: Château Batailley
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Pauillac - Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 20 July 2014

Tasting Note:
First bottle was corked. Opaque crimson verging on black. Prototypical Left Bank Bordeaux nose of charcoal and woodsmoke; very Cabernet (blackcurrant, dusty gravel). Medium bodied, dry and savoury, quite aristocratic. Starting to come into its own, though a touch of dry tannin on the finish suggests room for further evolution.
Score: 17/20

1997 WENDOUREE PRESSINGS Mb - SHOCKED BY THE POWER

If Wendouree is known for the ageworthiness of its wines, what of a wine made from the Pressings of Malbec?! 17 years on from vintage, Wendouree’s 1997 Pressings Mb is starting to hit its straps. The tannic framework of youth has fully resolved and the wine has developed considerable aromatic complexity.

While Wendouree is often associated with power, it would be wrong to caricature wines such as this as one-dimensional monsters. In fact, there’s an almost European elegance at play here, and genuine savoury quality to the wine that sets it apart from many Australian dry red wines.

Squeezed in between the lauded 1996 and 1998 vintages, 1997 in South Australia never received and great plaudits for red wines (Clare Valley Riesling was an entirely different matter). However, this particular bottle again demonstrates that better 1997’s have a lot to offer. There’s an almost regal quality to this outstanding Wendouree wine. Although delivering plenty of pleasure now, it has sufficient stuffing to go another decade and more.

1997 WENDOUREE PRESSINGS Mb
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Malbec
Vintage: 1997
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 12 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Alluring nose of tilled earth, mint, anise, blackcurrant and plum, touch of woodsmoke. Full bodied, dry and savoury. Tannins are fully resolved, but the wine is still very much primary fruit driven. Quite ‘Old World’ like in terms of its savoury palate and elegance. Aristocratic!
Score: 18/20

1989 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER ROUGE - (ALMOST) PERFECT!

Much is said and written of Bordeaux pricing in this day and age. It is fair to say that the greatest wines of Bordeaux have become pretty much the exclusive privy of the rich. To some extent that is a great pity, as a mature example of a fine red Bordeaux is a pleasure that should be experienced many, not just a privileged few.

This particular wine is the essence of what is special about Bordeaux. Although a modest 12% ABV it possesses considerable flavour, tremendous complexity and outstanding length. It seamlessly glides over and caresses the palate.

While this wasn’t a perfect bottle (perhaps ever so slightly oxidised), it was eminently drinkable. It will be interesting to see how more recent vintages of this wine and its peers develop in bottle.

1989 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER ROUGE
Producer: Domaine de Chevalier
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1989
Region: Pessac-Leognan – Bordeaux, France
ABV: 12%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 27 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Evolved mid-garnet, bricking at the rim. Complex nose of leather, game, woodsmoke, fig, slightly acetic. Pleasant core of sweet plummy fruit, creamy texture, tannins completely resolved. Very elegant and stylish. Plenty of flesh on the bones even if not a completely perfect bottle. Delicious. Fully mature.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 WESTEND ESTATE THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - WINNERS ARE GRINNERS

Much is said and written of the Australian Show system. On the plus side, one can argue that it elevates the overall quality of wine made in this country and helps eliminate or at least reduce the incidence of faulty wines. Some suggest that it can lead to a homogenisation of wine, and a ‘bigger is better’ approach, arguing that more elegant, backward wines don’t show well when assessed en masse. Then there is the point that many of the very best producers don’t enter their wines in competition.

With this in mind, what does it mean to be the Stodart Trophy winner? Second in importance to the Jimmy Watson Trophy (from a commercial stand-point), the Stodart Trophy is awarded to the best one-year old dry red wine submitted for judging at the Royal Queensland Wine Show. Winner of the Stodart Trophy in 2012 was the 2011 Three Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon from Riverina-based producer Westend Estate.

As to the wine, it is no blockbuster, rather an elegant and very classic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of Riverina (60%) and Hilltops (40%) fruit, it is archetypal Cabernet Sauvignon. At this early stage in its life it displays at best moderate complexity, but there is upside for further development. All in all, it’s a well made, stylish wine.

What does this say of the show system? For one, it’s clear that wines are being judged on more than just raw power; consideration is being given to varietal integrity, elegance, purity and how the wines perform on the dinner table. If that reflects an overall shift in the consciousness of the Australian wine industry, then it is no bad thing.

2011 THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2011
Region: Multi-regional (Riverina and Hilltops)
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 24 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Nose is initially driven by cassis and blackberry coulis, opening with air up to reveal classical Cabernet Sauvignon dusty and earthy notes as well as menthol and charcoal. Dry, medium bodied, a model of elegance, very varietal and ‘classical’, sweet fruited up-front. Not overly complex at present, but there is genuine varietal integrity and excellence balance here. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 16+/20

1996 WYNN'S BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON - A CLASSIC

Wynn’s Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon is very much an Australian classic. Medium bodied and dry, with hallmark notes of mulberry and cassis, it is quintessential understated Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. In better vintages, it represents excellent value for money, especially when discounted, as can be the case in the major chains.

It goes without saying that 1996 was a superb vintage in South Australia; Coonawarra was no exception. Seventeen years on from vintage, Wynn’s Black Label is showing definite signs of maturity, with a somewhat evolved fragrant bouquet and supple palate. In keeping with the marque, this is a medium bodied, dare one say, elegant wine.

On this showing, it would seem that now is a good time to be drinking up the 1996 Black Label; the tannins have fully resolved, primary fruit has faded, and there is modest secondary complexity. It’s a very pleasant wine, but is starting to dry out a touch on the finish.  As the wine is sealed under cork, there may well be a bit of bottle variation, but this particular showing suggest that one's remaining bottles should be drunk sooner rather than later.

1996 BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1996
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 27 January 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red, fading very slightly at the rim. Mature nose, minty, earthbound, mulberry, slighty resinous/pine needle. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, drying out a tad on the finish. Tannins are fully resolved. Verging from primary to secondary, but unlikely to improve further. Drink up.
Score: 16/20

2001 PETALUMA COONAWARRA - ESSENCE OF TERRA ROSSA

Petaluma is a long-standing Coonawarra label started by Australian wine industry icon Brian Croser. For many years, it has been under the ownership of Lion Nathan, with Croser not involved in the winemaking. Petaluma Coonawarra is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that draws its inspiration from the great wines of Bordeaux and California.

Although Brian Croser long ago ceased his involvement with the wine, choosing to pursue other winemaking activities under the Tapanappa label, Petaluma Coonawarra remains a regional benchmark. As the 2001vintage evidences, it is a thoroughly modern and polished wine. It is also a wine that, in better vintages, has tremendous depth and the ability to age extremely well.

The 2001 Petaluma Coonawarra is only just starting to hit its stride and should still have several years up its sleeve. It is an excellent example of the type of wine that Coonawarra is about, showcasing its terra rosa terroir brilliantly.

2001 COONAWARRA
Producer: Petaluma
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2001
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 31 October 2010

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Intense nose of blackcurrant, dark cherry, plum and toasty oak underpinned by typical Coonawarra earth. Dry, medium bodied, very slick, confident and lush. Velvet smooth in texture, cassis and plum. Modern and vibrant. The best of Coonawarra in a bottle. Very good indeed.
Score: 17.5/20

2004 CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS - LEBANON'S GIFT TO THE WORLD OF WINE

Chateau Musar stands as one of the world’s most famous wineries. Located in the sometimes war-ravaged Bekaa Valley, it has been producing distinctive and deservedly sought after wines for several decades.

Stylistically, Musar is somewhat idiosyncratic. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with southern French varieties including Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault, it is sometimes reminiscent of a southern Rhone. On others, it is a ringer for a quality Right Bank Bordeaux. Whatever the case, there is a distinctive ‘Musariness’ that distinguishes Chateau Musar from the rest of the wine world.

Hochar Pere et Fils, the second wine of Chateau Musar, is a good introduction to the label. While it doesn’t possess the depth or complexity of the ‘Grand Vin’, there is a definite Musar character, reflected in the slightly nutty nose and silky palate. It is a wine that is well matched to lightly spice cuisine – a Lamb Tagine would be perfect.  

2004 HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 
Producer: Chateau Musar
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $37.99
Date tasted: 13 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Interesting nose of cherry, damson, leather, fig and grilled chestnuts. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, very silky in texture, cherry, plum and fig, cinnamon, ground nutmeg.
Score: 16/20

1998 ORDLANDO JACARANDA RIDGE - THE MEDALLIST

Jacaranda Ridge is Orlando’s label for its best Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. As such, it is only bottled in exceptional vintages such as 1998. This particular vintage met with considerable show success, which explains why the label is literally festooned with medals and trophies. Notwithstanding its show record, it is a wine that divided opinion, many considering the wine to be over-oaked.

As to the wine, 14 year on from vintage it is still deeply coloured, suggesting relatively little development. The nose is rather muted; regional menthol, earthy notes and a touch of mulberry. Suffice to say, the nose doesn’t quite deliver on expectations. The palate too, is rather underwhelming, revealing little by way of depth or complexity.

Oak doesn’t dominate, and this particular bottle doesn’t seem to have suffered from mild cork taint, nor is it ‘dead on arrival’. It is an uninspiring bottle of a wine that should be giving more. This is a case of a wine that raises more questions than it answers, and the only solution is to crack another bottle and see how it performs.

1998 JACARANDA RIDGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Orlando
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1998
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red, lightening just slightly toward the rim. Plenty of menthol on the nose, together with mulberry and freshly tilled red earth. Dry, medium bodied, mulberry, cassis, again slightly earthy. Not as expressive as one would expect a wine of this level to be, but no issues with the cork. A decent enough showing, but hard to judge where this wine is at presently, perhaps moving from primary to secondary?
Score: 15?/20