2014 MADER PINOT GRIS - FADE TO GRIS

In the past decade, Pinot Gris and its alter ego Pinot Grigio, has swept all before it. It seems that many drinkers have been allured to its lifted aromatics, soft pillowy texture and relatively low acidity. These traits make Pinot Gris (and Grigio) a very easy drinking wine.

Yours truly has rarely been bewitched by the supposed charms of Pinot Gris, much preferring the taut acidity of a sprightly Riesling, or arresting complexity of a fully worked Chardonnay.

However, there are times that call for a bottle of Pinot Gris, in this instance a rich, exotically spiced Sri Lankan curry. Mader Pinot Gris is a textbook example of Alsatian Pinot Gris, just off-dry with prototypical notes of apple, pear, honey and spice. It’s not particularly complex, but it has a ‘made for’ affinity with spiced food.

2014 MADER PINOT GRIS
Producer: Jean-Luc Mader

Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 15 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold aromatic nose of red apple, Nashi pear, honey and spice. Off-dry, medium bodied, sweet red apple and pear, touch of clove on the finish. Very typical.
Score: 16/20

2015 OCEAN EIGHT PINOT GRIS - FADE TO GRIS

By way of introduction it is worth mentioning that yours truly and Pinot Gris/Grigio are not the best of friends. Frankly, one finds all to many of this a la mode variety to be as dull as dishwater unless that is, the wine in question happens to be a lusciously sweet example from one of the best producers in Alsace.

It is fair to say that the Mornington Peninsula has established a strong name for itself in the Pinot Gris stakes, names such as T’Gallant, Quealy and Paradigm Hill all being noteworthy producers. On evidence of this bottle, the Aylwards of Ocean Eight should be added to the list. By the end of this bottle, one was just about sold on the virtues of Pinot Gris.

This particular wine displays the signature aromatics of Pinot Gris and its soft texture. Fermented to the point of being bone dry, a citrusy twist on the finish lends a pleasant twang to the finish that gives it a vibrancy lacking in so many examples of the grape.

2015 OCEAN EIGHT PINOT GRIS
Producer: Ocean Eight
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 7 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright coppery yellow in appearance. Lifted, aromatic nose of pear, red apple/apple blossom and musk, hint of background spice. Dry, mid-weight in body, lovely texture on the palate. In terms of fruit profile, the wine is straight from the apple/pear orchard, a twist of lemon citrus on the finish lending freshness. Top notch Pinot Gris.
Score: 16.5+/20

2015 STARGAZER ‘TUPELO’ - TUPELO

Stargazer is the brainchild of former Wirra Wirra winemaker Samantha Connew. Having done vintage in Oregon making Pinot Noir in her early years, she has neat turned full circle and is now making very fine Pinot Noir in Tasmania’s Huon Valley.

In addition to the highly rated Pinot Noir, three white wines fill out the Stargazer range – a Chardonnay, Riesling and ‘Tupelo’. ‘Tupelo’ is a three way blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

The 2015 vintage incarnation of ‘Tupelo’ sees the exotic tendencies of the Gewurztraminer very much reined in. Steely Riesling carries these wine, with its brisk acidity and core of citrusy, apple orchard fruit. This is a wine made for raw and lightly cured fish dishes – sushi, sashimi, ceviche – take your pick, all would work well.

2015 STARGAZER ‘TUPELO’
Producer: Stargazer
Variety: Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer
Region: Huon Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 25 June 2016

Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery white. Lifted aromatic nose of grapefruit pith, nashi pear, green apple/apple blossom, kaffir lime leaf and whitecurrant. Dry, steely and racy. Lime/grapefruit and crab apple. Lots of fine acidity. Good length.
Score: 16.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART THREE - DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT

Even by the standards of Alsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has a large portfolio, with around 35-40 wines traversing the region’s noble varietals (and one or two that aren’t!), vineyards and residual sweetness levels.

The estate is based in the village of Turckheim roughly 15 kilometres north of Colmar. The estate style, if one was to typify it, favours boldly flavoured, powerful wines that need at least medium term cellaring to reveal their full potential. To some extent, the wines tend to be marked by power more than finesse, but this is a small criticism.

In this particular imbiber’s opinion, the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are in marked contrast to those of Trimbach, which tend toward austerity and a steely line of acidity when young. Some might find the generosity (and occasional high alcohol levels one encounters) of certain Zind-Humbrecht wines to be a touch excessive. But it is very much a matter of personal taste. Of the wines tasted on this visit, Gewurztraminer Hengst at 15% ABV was one of the real stars; powerful and rich, but balanced, stylish and complex.

2012 MUSCAT GOLDERT GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Muscat
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Located in the village of Guebschwir.
Densely textured. Typical ‘grapey’ Muscat character. Dry, quite rich, slightly oily. Long finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 ZIND
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Chardonnay (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Auxerrois)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Aged in new foudres. Use of Chardonnay, only allowed in Cremant d’Alsace, means that it has to be labelled as a Vin de Table.
Lifted nose of lime and grapefruit, touch of oak spice. Citrussy acidity up-front, stone-fruit on the mid—palate. Somewhat of an oddity in the realm of aromatic Alsatian wines.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 RIESLING HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Fruit grown on the plains of Turckheim.
Direct and straightforward on both the palate and nose. Seems a touch dilute. Key lime pie?
Score: 15/20

2012 RIESLING 'CLOS HAUSERER'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vines planted in 1973 and 1974.
Slightly closed. Delicate citrus aromatics, stonefruit. Quite textured on the palate. Structured. Not yielding much at present but shows promise.
Score: 16+/20

2011 RIESLING 'CLOS WINDSBUHL'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
2012 vintage is still fermenting! Grown on pure limestone at 250m elevation.
Direct nose of stonefruit and spice. Lovely underbelly of fine acidity. Showing the benefit of bottle age and starting to fill out. Very good.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Zind-Humbrecht owns seven parcels in Brand. Pink granite soils.
Delicate. Starting to come together. Zesty lemon/lime sherbet. Concentrated. Alive!! Real structure for ageing.
Score: 17/20

2012 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
11g/l residual sugar – slightly sweeter than the 2011.
Soft acid line. Open and forward. Not as compelling as the 2011.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Southern-most Grand Cru in Alsace. Volcanic soil. 350m-400m elevation.
Slightly baked character. Rich, flinty and smoky. Some real interest.
Score: 17/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Delicate. Medium sweet. Typical apple and pear fruit profile. Slightly pinched on the finish, A touch simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Elegant and delicate. Apple, pear and spice. Dry. Nice balancing acidity. Young and structured – needs time.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Freshly buttered toast. Lime/lemon, red apples and spice. More open than the 2012. Good.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS RANGE DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Open and inviting nose of baked apple pie. Medium sweet. Roundly textured. Sweet but balanced. Yum!
Score: 17/20


2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Gewürztraminer nose – lifted, musky and floral. Dry, round and creamy – very much a food style. Desperately needs appropriate food; onion tart perhaps?!
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER CALCAIRE
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Two parcels of younger vines, mostly from Hengst.
Coiled. Quite subtle. NOT in your face Gewürz. Off-dry, yellow plum, baked pear/apple.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HENGST GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Hengst is a late ripening site.
Dense and concentrated. Touch of Earl Grey tea. Funky and earthy. Real interest on display here. Medium sweet, quite spicy. Opulent but far from over the top. Well balanced.
Score: 17.5+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Concentrated, open and intense. Not as complex, but more restrained and elegant than the Hengst. Compact and stylish.
Score: 17/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES ‘TRIE SPECIALE’
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 6.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
More than 200g/l residual sugar. From the lower part of the Brand Grand Cru.
Golden yellow. Very intense and powerful. Rich baked fruit, raisins. Butterscotch and honey. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART TWO - DOMAINE WEINBACH

Domaine Weinbach, owned by the Faller family, is one of the great names in Alsace. Situated at the entry to the village of Kaysersberg with the imposing walled Clos des Capucins, the estate draws on fruit from the clos, as well as the nearby Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Furstentum and Mambourg, all of which are farmed biodynamically.

The domaine was recently rocked by the untimely and premature passing of Catherine Faller, one of two sisters who had for many years taken responsibility for day-to-day operations. As one of the world’s great female winemakers, her loss has been felt across the wine world.

As is the case with many Alsatian domaines, the range here is extensive, encompassing a wide range of varietals, sites and ripeness/sugar levels. On evidence of wines tasted at the domaine, and other wines enjoyed while in the region, quality is high across the board.

For this particular imbiber, the real stars of the show is the sweeter wines (the 2012 Gewürtztraminer Mambourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives and the 2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée d’Or Quintessence de Grain Nobles are both stunning wines). They combine a rich lusciousness with remarkable complexity and incredible finesse.

Gewürtztraminer has long been regarded a forté of Domaine Weinbach, reinforced the wines tasted at this visit. In the hands of Weinbach, Gewürtztraminer transcends the stereotype of rose petal and lychee, with stonefruit and baked apple also thrown into the mix – a variety that can be enjoyable, but rather tiring is transformed into a multi-faceted and compelling one at this address.

In sum, the wines of Domaine Weinbach serve to justify its lofty position in France’s wine consciousness. There is a clarity and sense of elegance that runs throughout the wines.

2012 PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
No new oak. Domaine Weinbach also make another Pinot Noir, Cuvée W, that sees partial maturation in new wood.
Bright cherry red. Light and fresh. Crème de mure, marzipan, cherry and rhubarb. Dry, ripe supple tannins, sour cherry. No lack of acidity. Good length.
Score: 16/20

2012 ‘CUVÉE THEO’ RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Weinbach

Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 1 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow in appearance. Open and aromatic nose of orange zest, stonefruit and crystallised ginger. Dry, medium bodied, zesty and fresh. Attractive blend of stonefruit and citrus with tangy acidity carrying the finish.
Score: 17/20

2013 RIESLING ‘CUVÉE THEO’
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Draws on 35 year old vines from the Clos des Capucins. Recently bottled.
Open and aromatic nose of grapefruit, peach, apple and pear. Direct and straightforward palate of crab apple/green apple and lemon citrus. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
From the upper part of the Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard. Not yet bottled.
Aromatic, slightly floral nose, white peach. Mineral. Delicate and elegant, green apple, peach, floral notes. Bright tingle of acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5++/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE. CATHERINE GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Tight and mineral. Floral – apple blossom, pear. Dry, medium bodied; pear, apple and white peach. Good length.
Score: 17+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RÉSERVE CLOS DES CAPUCINS
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Driest and lightest Gewürztraminer made at Domaine Weinbach.
Typical Gewürztraminer nose and palate. Quite light and easy. Not too phenolic. Good length and overall balance.
Score: 16.5/20 

2009 GEWÜRZRTRAMINER ALTENBOURG
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Lifted floral bouquet of rose petal and talc. Off-dry, excellent fruit intensity, stonefruit (yellow peach, nectarine), caramelised pineapple, touch of spice on the finish. Relatively low acidity. Good!
Score: 17/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Baked apple pie and streudel straight out of the oven. Slightly exotic edge – lychee. Medium sweet. Good fruit intensity. Lacking slightly on the mid-palate.
Score: 16/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER MAMBOURG GRAND CRU VENDANGES TARDIVES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Grown on clay/limestone soil, which lends the wine a velvet texture.
Gently aromatic nose – not too extrovert. Sweet but delicate. Lychee, rhubarb, white peach, Mirabelle, spice. Doesn’t cloy. Finishes very long! Outstanding.
Score: 18.5/20

2006 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Enormous concentration. Intense and exotic – apple, apricot, yellow plum and lychee. Sweet, elegant and fine.
Score: 18/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CUVÉE D’OR QUINTESSENCE DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 10.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Made from fruit grown below the Furstentum Grand Cru.
Intense and driven - apple crumble. Sweet, enormously concentrated, lovely sherbet-tang balances the sweetness and richness. Stylish and elegant. Exceptional.
Score: 19/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART ONE - DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS

Marcel Deiss is a 27 hectare domaine situated in the village of Bergheim, roughly 25 kilometres north of Colmar. In a region where single varietal wines dominate, Deiss has adopted an approach that emphasises on terroir expression, regardless of cepage. As such, it produces field blends, some of which use all 13 of the permitted Alsace grape varieties, white and red.

Interestingly, co-planted varieties flower at the same time. They are also picked at the same time and co-fermented. Deiss argues that co-fermentation provides for better integration. The estate’s entry level wines includes three mono-cepage wines; a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Gewurztraminer. Thereafter, it is vineyard name that takes centre stage.

Domaine Marcel Deiss is 100% biodynamic and is moving toward ‘model forestière’, which embodies the concept of ‘nature in harmony’. Trees have been planted both around and inside vineyards. The result thus far has been improved flowering.

The estate's holdings are focused around the village of Bergheim, including the Altenberg Grand Cru, save for Manbourg near Colmar and Schoenbourg in Riquewihr.

The wines of Marcel Deiss are not only among the best made in Alsace, but the best white wines made anywhere. Across the entire range, they manage a wonderful balance of powerful, intense fruit, vibrant acidity, elegance and complexity.

2012 ALSACE
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of all 13 permitted Alsatian varieties.
Bright aromatic nose of lychee and apple blossom. Very fresh and vibrant. Medium bodied, touch phenolic. Good fruit intensity. Spice carries the finish which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014
Tasting Note:
Sourced from fruit grown in Bergheim and the nearby village of St Hippolyte.
Delicate and steely citrus-laden nose. Elegant, refined and pretty. Very pure and driven. Lemon citrus, pear and apple on the palate. Delicious.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Off-dry, round and elegant. Very well balanced. A style that really works. Fine and long. Not oily or alcoholic.
Score: 16/20

2011 BERCKEM
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly with all other 12 Alsace varieties in the mix. All of the fruit comes from the village of Bergheim (Berckem is the old name for Bergheim). 15g/l residual sugar.
Attractive aromatic nose – definitely some Gewurztraminer or Muscat here. Touch of sweetness up-front, medium bodied, refined and elegant. Real style and verve on display here. Lovely melange of spice and exotic fruit. Delicious!
Score: 17/20

2008 BURLENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir with a contribution from all of the white Pinot varieties. 60% whole bunches. Fruit is sourced from a Premier Cru site which is at 280m elevation.
Mid-cherry red. Alluring nose of rhubarb and black cherry, distinctive note of black pepper. Real intensity and depth, brooding yet subtle. Definitely Pinot Noir of real quality, but not Burgundy. Stylish and suave. Un 'vin de sommelier'!.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 LANGENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Pinot Noir and Muscat from vines grown on granite soils in St Hippolyte.
Delicate nose of apple, floral notes, phenolic. Round, compact and elegant. Real drive and cut through the mid-palate. Round and with plenty of depth, yet elegant at the same time.
Score: 17/20

2011 ENGELGARTEN
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vineyard is located immediately behind the Deiss cellar in Bergheim. Blend of Riesling, the Pinots and Muscat.
Bold and flamboyant. A veritable apple tarte tatin of a wine. Rich and voluminous. Lots to enjoy.
Score: 17/20

2010 ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
South facing site located next to Engelgarten. Limestone soils. Two-way blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. 25g/l residual sugar.
Real lift, concentration and depth. Citrus and baked apple. Plenty of zing on the finish. Starts sweet, but finishes very fresh and dry. Delicious.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 SCHOFFWEG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling and various Pinots grown on soft calcareous sub-soil. Vineyard is located to the east of the Altenberg Grand Cru site.
Open nose of crème patissiere and key lime pie! Dry and mineral, touch austere, needs time! Structured and slightly backward. Touch of tannin. Nose is more open than the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 GRASBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
North facing site at 350m elevation. Blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
Aromatic and complex. Tightly coiled. Real depth and style. Steely acidity carries the finish.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GRUENSPIEL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep heavy clay soils. One third each of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. A long ageing wine that is typically austere and tight when young.
Brooding and voluminous. Lots of spice. Mineral rather than fruit. Not yielding a great deal at present. Wide and expansive – full bodied. Tastes like there could be Pinot Blanc in the mix?!? A big wine that needs time.
Score: 17??/20

2009 BURG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Small river runs through the vineyard, encouraging botrytis.
Off-dry. Citrus, dried apricot, peach and cumquat. Long line of fine acidity carries the finish. Quite brilliant!
Score: 18.5/20

2008 HUEBUHL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces high levels of botrytis early in the season. Blend of the Pinots and Muscat.
Bright golden yellow. Vibrant nose of quince, spiced apples and honeycomb. Medium sweet. Real fireworks in the mouth – a veritable explosion of flavour. Very complete and together. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

2011 MANBOURG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces wines with typically soft tannins. A regular source for sweet wines, but being windy botrytis rarely occurs.
Lime, pear, spice and crushed minerals. Elegant, medium bodied, very delicate and fine. Vibrant acidity. Delicate and pretty. Needs time.
Score: 18/20

2009 ALTENBERG DE BERGHEIM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Botrytis occurs late in the season every year. Picked 5 weeks later than Manbourg. Blend of all 13 permitted varieties. 70g/l residual sugar.
Very pretty, aromatic and perfumed. Medium sweet, delicate and fine. Quite backward – not as expressive as the 1er Crus at this point in its evolution. Will literally flower with bottle age.
Score: 18.5/20

2009 SCHOENBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Aromatic White blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Site is located in Riquewihr. Sourse of some of the longest ageing wines in Alsace. Clay/gypsum soil high in sulphur. Susceptible to botrytis. Blend of Riesling and 20% of the other 12 Alsace varieties.
Pretty, elegant and fine – featherweight in texture. Real depth, concentration and intensity, yet remarkably delicate and elegant. A truly outstanding white wine.
Score: 19.5/20

2011 GREYSTONE SAND DOLLAR PINOT GRIS - JUMP!

Ever popular, Pinot Gris/Grigio is a variety that all too often flatters to deceive. With its modest acidity and gentle aromatic profile, it often comes over (to this imbiber at least) as a low rent Chardonnay. However, to every rule, there are many exceptions. One such exception is the Sand Dollar Pinot Gris 2011 from New Zealand’s Greystone Wines.

This particular example takes its cue from Alsace and does so very well indeed. It is a wine that certainly doesn’t under-deliver in flavour. The wine literally jumps out of the glass with apple and pear orchard fruit intermingled with stonefruit and spice. The palate is similarly full flavoured; this is a wine that is about bold flavour. It’s no shrinking violet!

Although there is residual sweetness here, the wine finishes dry, lending a good sense of balance to the wine. As with some Alsatian examples of Pinot Gris, the alcohol is toward the higher end of the scale at 14%, though one would be surprised if it were slightly higher. However, it is held in check thanks to the wine’s considerable power and flavour profile.

This is a wine that begs for moderately spiced Asian cuisine; Chinese, Thai, Malaysia, Indian, all of them would work. Alternately, the gentle sweetness would be a good foil for salty smoked meats. Kudos to Greystone Wines for producing a Pinot Gris that stands out from the pack.

2011 SAND DOLLAR PINOT GRIS
Producer: Greystone
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Waipara Valley, New Zealand
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $24.99
Date tasted: 21 July 2013

Tasting Note:
Lemon yellow with green tinges. Open aromatic nose of green apple, pear, lychee and spice. Off-dry, deeply flavoured, the palate is similar in profile to the bouquet, excellent depth and varietal definition. Oodles of flavour here, if not necessarily subtlety. Finishes slightly dry, which gives the wine a good sense of balance. Textbook Pinot Gris in the Alsatian style.
Score: 16.5+/20

QUEALY PINOT GRIGIO FRUILANO – AROMATIC TO A TEE

We have already reviewed the northern Italian inspired Pobblebonk white blend from Quealy Wines on these pages, as well as the single varietal Friulano fermented in clay amphorae. In terms of pricing, the Pinot Grigio/Friulano blend sits below the other two wines in the Quealy hierarchy, yet it is an equally attractive wine.

Wonderfully aromatic and with courage to be different, it delivers an enticing mix of apple/pear orchard fruit married with apricot and lemon citrus. It is a vibrant, lively, life affirming wine that will elevate any occasion.

2010 PINOT GRIGIO FRIULANO
Producer: Quealy Wines
Variety: Pinot Grigio blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $20.00
Date tasted: 21 July 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Lifted aromatic nose of apricot, quince, green apples and lemon citrus. Dry, medium bodied, very textured and round, punctuated with lively acidity. The wine displays a lovely balance of the two varieties; pear, apple and apricot. Good length. Very drinkable and extremely good value.
Score: 16.5/20

POBBLEBONK - TWO FROGS.......

Pinot Grigio is a variety that has literally exploded in terms of planting and sales in Australia in the past decade or so. Drinkers seem to be won over by the grape’s relatively modest acidity and, as is the case in most commercial expressions, relatively simple pear drop fruit profile.

Yet there are a growing number of serious examples of Pinot Grigio/Gris in Australia, notably from cool regions such as the Mornington Peninsula, King Valley and Adelaide Hills. Hitherto, Australian examples of Pinot Grigio have almost exclusively been bottled as single varietal wines. However, the innovative producers of Italy’s north-east often use it as a blending grape, particularly alongside Riesling and Chardonnay.

Pobblebonk (which refers to the evening chorus of fornicating frogs) is an Australian take on the great white blends of north-east Italy. By and large the wine succeeds, each component part adding rather than drowning each other out. It possesses lifted aromatics with a touch of spice lending complexity. While drinking well now, it should develop in bottle for up to 5 years.

2010 POBBLEBONK
Producer: Quealy Wines
Variety: Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat Giallo
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 15 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Lifted aromatic bouquet of lemon, green apples, Nashi pears and lifted spice. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, apple and pear to the fore. The palate is carried by well balanced acidity. Good length.
Score: 16+/20

RAGAZZI - A PINOT GRIGIO WITH CHARACTER

Casa Freschi is a relatively small operation with holdings in both Langhorne Creek and Adelaide Hills. As the name implies, Casa Freschi has a strong Italian leaning, reflected in the wines bottled under its label including 'Profondo', a red blend, 'La Signora' Nebbiolo, 'La Signorina', a northern Italian inspired blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Grigio and 'Ragazzi' Pinot Grigio.

A vineyard in Summertown in the cool Adelaide Hills provides the fruit for the 'Ragazzi' Pinot Grigio. Thanks to its cool climate origin, the wine is characterised by bright acidity. There is good apple orchard fruit intensity, and aromatic depth not often found in Australian Pinot Gris/Grigio. This is a very good example of the variety; it makes an excellent aperitif and wine to sit alongside an antipasto platter on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

2011 ‘RAGAZZI’ PINOT GRIGIO
Producer: Casa Freschi
Variety: Pinot Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 18 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery green. Clean and fresh aromatic nose of white nectarine, honeydew melon, Nashi pear and green apples, lifted floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, good fruit intensity; green apples, grapefruit. Fresh, clean and crisp, elevated by a fine thread of acidity and pleasant sourness on the finish.
Score: 16/20

OVER THE MOON WITH 'LA LUNA' PINOT GRIGIO

Call it Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, this seems to be one variety from that is difficult to coax genuine interest and complexity from. This hasn’t stopped the onward march of Pinot Gris/Grigio; it continues to soar in popularity, only all-dominant Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc curbing its rise.

The question is, can Pinot Gris or Grigio be interesting? Yes, there are perfectly quaffable, pear drop laden examples in abundance, and some of the richer wines, in the Alsatian mode, can offer more than just simple pleasure.

The 2011 ‘La Luna’ Pinot Grigio, made by importer Tim Stock certainly doesn’t lack for ambition. Made from Yarra Valley fruit, fermented with wild yeasts and bottled with minimal sulphites, there is an effort to produce a wine that sticks its head above the parapet. Certainly, there is a level of fruit intensity and a pleasant crunchy texture that places it above the norm. Yet, there is just modest complexity here. Sure, it’s a well made wine, with some interest, but ultimately, it is a Pinot Grigio, a good one yes, but without out the thrill that some other varieties can deliver.

2011 ‘LA LUNA’ PINOT GRIGIO
Producer: Fruits of the Vine
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 26 February 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Straightforward nose of nashi pears and green apples. Medium bodied, good fruit intensity, once again, nashi pears and green apples. Slightly crunchy in texture. Although relatively simple, there’s decent depth of fruit and length on the palate here.
Score: 15.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BEST'S GREAT WESTERN

Historic Best’s winery, founded way back in 1866, is an Australian icon. A visit to Best’s is like taking a step back in time, with a number of original buildings, and vines that date back to the late 1800’s. Take a walk out the front of the cellar door and you’ll see 130 year old Dolcetto vines that were originally thought to be Malbec.

As a family-owned winery, Best’s has always tended to steer away from the norm. It is one of few wineries in the world to release a single varietal Pinot Meunier. Recent years have seen a marked improvement in the white wines at Best’s. The Rieslings and Pinot Gris are all excellent examples, albeit the flagship House Block Riesling (bottled off-dry in a Germanic style) is not cheap at $35.

Although Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown, the real star here is the Shiraz, a grape that was seemingly made for Great Western. The flagship Thomson Family Shiraz is without a doubt one of Australia’s best. At around $150 it is no bargain, but it compares favourably with many other luxury cuvees. Bin 0 Shiraz is a benchmark of its style; it’s all about textural elegance, forest berry fruit, tar and anise – sophisticated stuff indeed. Sadly, it is no longer the bargain it once was.

Bin 1 Shiraz, the newcomer in the line-up, delivers excellent value for money, and is the way to go for those seeking value. It should improve with cellaring for up to a decade.

2008 PINOT NOIR ROSÉ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $15.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright summery strawberry fruit on the nose. Dry and elegant, holding up well for a 3 year old rosé. Crisp and vibrant. Good length. Another good example of how far Australia has progressed with rosé as a style.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
The 2011 is the first official release of this wine. Pale silvery lemon. Typical Pinot Gris nose of red and green apples. Touch of lychee. Dry and elegant, good fruit intensity. Vibrant lemon citrus acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale, almost water white. Aromatic nose of Granny Smith apples, slightly floral. Medium dry, touch of spritz. Easy going style that would be well suited to moderately spiced Asian cuisine.
Score: 16/20

2010 HOUSE BLOCK RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 10.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Lemon sherbert and Granny Smith apples on the nose. Off-dry, good fruit intensity, once again green apples and lemon citrus. Slightly richer in texture than the basic Riesling. Lively acidity on the finish. A bit expensive for what it is.
Score: 16/20

2009 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT MEUNIER
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Meunier
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Meaty nose, rhubarb, cherry. Dry, medium bodied. Elegant, pure and savoury, dark cherry fruit. A nasty wine to taste blind!
Score: 16/20

2010 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Vibrant nose of cherries. Dry and elegant, quite light and savoury. There’s a light hand at work here, the wine comes across as being unforced. Dark cherry fruit again on the palate. Quite pleasant, albeit not particularly complex.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 OLD CLONE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $60.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From a single vineyard planted in 1867. Cherries and strawberries on the nose, together with sandalwood. Weighter and fuller in body than the Estate Pinot Noir. Slightly stalky edge. Decent length. A touch expensive.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Kirsch and fruit of the forest compote. Dry, medium bodied, gentle raspberry and boysenberry fruit. Not particularly intense or varietal, but clean and well made.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Intense raspberry red. Bold and flamboyant nose of tar, boysenberry, blueberry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, very elegant and fine. Ripe and sweet fruited to start, but finishes dry with structured tannins. Elegant and very impressive. Excellent value for money.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GREAT WESTERN BIN 0 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $75.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Slightly reticent nose; smoky oak, licorice, raspberry coulis, brambly fruit. Quite serious. Dry, slightly richer and fuller than the Bin 1. Concentrated essence of Shiraz. Firm structured tannins frame the finish which is long. Holds out great promise for the future.
Score: 18/20

2009 SPARKLING SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Crown cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Brambly fruit compote. Fruit sweetness upfront. Raspberry and plum laden fruit driven style that would be well suited to Chinese cuisine especially Peking Duck. 

Score: 16/20