2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE - SERIOUS

Rose is arguably the most dynamic category in the Australian wine market at present. It seems that we just can’t get enough of the stuff. Some local vignerons have been rather slow to clock on to the lucrative market for dry rose.

For many years, Paradigm Hill has produced a very sophisticated rose based on estate grown Mornington Peninsula Shiraz. Barrel fermented, including a small percentage of new oak, it is an ambitious wine that is its own animal.

Transition Rose is not a copy of a southern French rose, but a serious, dry table wine that is made for the dinner table. The detailed back label suggests that it could be aged for 10 or more years, though one doubts that many bottles maker it beyond their third or fourth year post vintage before being consumed.

This is a classy rose with its own distinctive personality that proves that better Australian roses can more than hold their own against imports from fashionable Provence and elsewhere in Europe.

2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE
Producer: Paradigm Hill
Variety: Rose
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 11.7%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 28 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Attractive nose of delicate macerated red fruits, subtle spice. Medium bodied, light and fresh, zippy citrusy acidity. Although light on its feet it is a wine that doesn’t lack for depth or fruit. Bone dry and savoury – good dinner table wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 DOMAINE COLLOTTE MARSANNAY ROSE - LIFE IN A NORTHERN TOWN

Marsannay is one of the youngest appellations in Burgundy. It is also the only commune in Burgundy that has its own appellation for rose wines. If a producer made a rose wine from fruit grown in great vineyards such as Le Chambertin or Richebourg, they would only be entitled to Bourgogne Rose appellation status.

Marsannay has earned a good reputation in recent years as a source of good value red wine. On this evidence, its Marsannay Rose is also worth a look. Made from 100% Pinot Noir grown in the excellent 2015 vintage, Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rose has excellent palate weight and depth of flavour.

The fruit profile combines macerated strawberries and citrusy acidity. It’s not as complex as the outstanding Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Rose reviewed a week or two ago, but there’s a lot to like about this savoury, food friendly wine.

2015 DOMAINE COLLOTTE MARSANNAY ROSE
Producer: Domaine Collotte
Variety: Rose
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 4 February 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright nose of strawberry pulp and macerated fresh raspberries, floral notes. Very bright and fresh. Good palate weight and depth. Savoury and textured, fresh strawberries, citrussy acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16/20

2016 MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK ROSE - PINK CADILLAC

Rose is witnessing a remarkable revival of fortune at present, with Provence leading the way. Australian wine producers have been rather slow to act, which is surprising given our warm climate and outdoors lifestyle. There are, of course, exceptions, most notably Charles Melton’s Rose of Virginia (though it verges toward dry red in style).

So how does a $50 Australian rose stack up? Australian Riesling has long struggled to break through the $50 ceiling. What then of Johnny-come-lately rose?! $50 is certainly getting up there for a rose, but if the wine is good enough, why not?

The wine in question is Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Rose, a single vineyard wine based on Pinot Noir from the trump card site in Mac’s portfolio of Yarra Valley vineyards. Only 1,080 bottles were made.

It is a beautifully perfumed and wonderfully textured wine that ranks alongside some of the best examples from France. High on drinkability, the wine looks great in the glass (Riedel Vinum Burgundy in this instance) and delivers a delicious, savoury accented palate of macerated strawberries and subtle spice. This wine is proof positive that rose can be a fine wine in its own right. Chapeau Mac Forbes!

2016 MAC FORBES WOORI YALLOCK ROSE
Variety: Rose
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 28 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright orangey pink in appearance. Attractive nose of apricot blossom and macerated strawberries. Dry, medium bodied, lovely texture and mouthfeel. Excellent depth of flavour. Strawberry pulp and a touch of spice. Classy stuff that stands up to the best roses from France.
17.5/20

2015 CHATEAU DE L’AUMERAUDE CUVEE MARIE-CHRISTINE - I NEVER PROMISED YOU A ROSE GARDEN

The pink wines of Provence have taken all before them in the past few years here in Australia. The ascent of Provence rose reflects marked growth in the rose category as a whole. No other style of rose has seduced drinkers more than the pale salmon pink wines of Provence.

Bone dry and with attractive strawberries and cream aromatics, Provence rose delivers exactly what modern, well-travelled drinkers want in a glass of rose. Throw in a bit of Cote d’Azur glamour and you’ve got the full package.

Not all Provence rose is great wine. Many examples are made to a pricepoint and flatter to deceive. Cuvee Marie-Christine, the flagship cuvee of Chateau de l’Aumerade delivers pretty much everything once could want from a Provence rose - lifted aromatics, savoury, textured palate and great fruit intensity – now where’s the bouillabaisse?!

2015 CHATEAU DE L’AUMERAUDE CUVEE MARIE-CHRISTINE
Producer: Chateau de l’Aumerade
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault
Region: Provence, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Plastic cork
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 22 December 2016

Tasting Note:
Pale salmon pink. Attractive nose of macerated strawberries, cherry blossom and melon. Dry, medium bodied, needs time to open up. Soft and plush. Delicate strawberry, melon fruits. Slightly creamy in texture. Good length. Classy rose.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 BODEGAS EXOPTO ‘BOZETO DE EXOPTO’ RIOJA ROSADO - STRAWBERRY FIELDS FOREVER

The Spaniard’s are among the biggest producers and consumers of rose wine. It comes of little surprise, therefore, that they’re pretty good at fashioning very drinkable expressions of the style. This example, from Bodegas Exopto delivers pretty much all one could want from the rose. It is bright and fresh, with just a tiny bit of fruit sweetness up-front.

Delicate red fruits carry the palate, which is lively and fresh. This is the sort of wine that has the words ‘Drink Me’ writ large on the label. Sadly, this particular bottle was emptied all too quickly. Provence rose might be king, but Spain has plenty offer when it comes to pink wine.

2015 BODEGAS EXOPTO ‘BOZETO DE EXOPTO’ RIOJA ROSADO
Producer: Bodegas Exopto
Variety: Tempranillo, Garnacha
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 9 October 2016

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Attractive nose of cranberry, strawberry and cherry. Medium bodied, touch of fruit sweetness upfront is followed by a panoply of delicate summer berries. Very fresh, lively and life-affirming. Not that complex, but dangerously drinkable.
Score: 16/20

2015 ARFION SMOKESTACK LIGHTNING ROSÉ - PLANET EARTH

What does one make of a wine made from Pinot Grigio fermented on skins for 18 days and bottled in a funky half litre bottle? Orange red in appearance, earthbound in feel and hard to describe! There’s quite a lot to like here, though its earth, savoury personality and price won’t appeal to all. Plenty of fun, though perhaps best enjoyed as a single glass with the right food.

2015 ARFION 'SMOKESTACK LIGHTNING' ROSÉ
Producer: Arfion
Variety: Rosé (Pinot Grigio)
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 11.8%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 19 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright orangey red in appearance. Whiff of strawberry and pear on the nose. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. More earthy than savoury. Hard to describe and hard to define, but by and large it works.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 PODERE 414 TOSCANA ROSATO 'FLOWER POWER' - SINK THE PINK

Little needs to be said about Podere 414’s Sangiovese-based Rosato than ‘bloody delicious’. Delicate, pretty and dry, it is a fine, refreshing rose that is immensely satisfying on its own, wih a Caesar salad or just about anything. One bottle is simply not enough!

2014 PODERE 414 TOSCANA ROSATO 'FLOWER POWER'
Producer: Podere 414
Variety: Rose
Vintage: 2014
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 14 December 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale orangey pink. Pretty nose of strawberry and redcurrant. Delicate and gentle, the palate in the same vein as the nose, lemony acidity carrying the finish. Does what one wants from a good rose – sates and refreshes.
Score: 16/20

2013 CHATEAU GRÉZAN FAUGÈRES ROSÉ - BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

While Languedoc rosé may lack the sexy appeal of Provence, better examples can at least as good as those from its southern French counterpart. This particular wine, from the Faugères appellation, is a class act.

A blend of Cinsault (60%) and Syrah (40%), it delivers attractive aromatics that combine orange zest, apricot pulp and dried herbs allied with typical red fruits. Vibrant and lively, it is a delicious rosé that simply says ‘drink me’. What more can one ask?!

2013 CHATEAU GRÉZAN FAUGÈRES ROSÉ
Producer: Chateau Grézan
Variety: Rosé
Vintage: 2013
Region: Languedoc, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Glass Vinolok
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 18 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale coral pink. Interesting nose of orange zest, apricot pulp, floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, delicate red fruits, touch of spice, fresh citrus acidity on the finish. Quite a funky rosé – lively, with plenty of personality. A good drink.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 CHATEAU LA GORDONNE COTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ - WHOLE LOTTA ROSÉ

When it comes to rosé, Provence, for many, sets the benchmark. Over 50% of the wine made in Provence is rosé and many drinkers favour Provence rosé over other examples of the style. In recent years, there has been an explosion in the volume of Cotes de Provence rosés imported into Australia, not all of which are particularly compelling examples of the style.

Chateau La Gordonne does pretty much everything one could want of a Provence rosé at $25 per bottle. Pale salmon pink in appearance, it delivers fragrant red-fruited aromatics typical of the genre. On the palate, it is medium in body, with good weight and vibrant acidity which carries the finish.

2014 CHATEAU LA GORDONNE COTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ
Producer: Chateau la Gordonne
Variety: Rosé
Vintage: 2014
Region: Provence, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 10 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale salmon pink. Typical Provence rosé nose of strawberry and aniseed, floral notes. Medium bodied, dry and savoury. Delicate interplay of light red fruits. Good concentration and palate weight. Better than the 2013 of the same wine.
Score: 16/20

2012 HEAD GRENACHE ROSÉ - WHOLE LOTTA ROSIE!

Rosé is a wine style that has only recently been taken seriously by Australian vignerons. While rosé is an important category in the Old World, particularly in Provence and parts of Spain, we in Australia have been rather slow in recognizing the commercial potential of rosé.

With Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz and Mourvèdre the backbone of the roses southern France and Spain (with Garnacha aka Grenache), Australia’s traditional warm climate regions (particularly the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale) have the necessary resources at their disposal to produce high quality rosé. However, only a few have incorporate rosé as a key player in their range.

Alex Head is one producer to have treated rosé with the merit it deserves. Head Grenache Rosé is more than a match for most Provence rosés that make it to these shores. Pale salmon pink in colour, delicate on both the nose and palate and weighing in at a modest 12.5% ABV, this is a wine that ticks all of the boxes.

While the wine is only moderately complex, it delivers most things one could want from a quality rosé at under $30 per bottle – elegance, refinement and most importantly, refreshment value. A wine like this is all too easy to guzzle back on a warm summer’s day, especially alongside appropriate food. – salade Niçoise would be perfect!

2012 HEAD GRENACHE ROSÉ
Producer: Head Wines
Variety: Rosé
Vintage: 2012
Region: Marche, Italy
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 18 October 2014

Tasting Note:
Pale salmon pink. Delicate nose of cranberry, redcurrant and lemon zest. Very pretty. Bone dry, medium bodied, savoury – a real food style. Delicate red fruits fill the palate (cranberry, sour cherry). Lemony acidity carries the finish, which is long and fresh.
Score: 16/20

2012 FREEMAN 'RONDO' RONDINELLA ROSÉ - IN THE PINK

Rondinella is best known as one of the blending partners in Valpolicella in its various forms. Rarely do we see it as a rosé. Unlike the French and the Spanish, the Italians hitherto have not been huge consumers of rosé, which explain why, especially as the grape originates from the comparatively mild Veneto region rather than Italy’s warm south.

This particular offering from Freeman Vineyards was approached from some interest. There is a suggestion of cherry somewhat reminiscent of Valpolicella. However, the overall impression is of a competently made, but ultimately straightforward and simple wine with modest depth.

If one is looking for a quality rose with an Italian bent, there are better to be found for similar money, notably the Cantina Zaccagnin Montepulciano Rosé (http://penguinspalate.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/cantina-zaccagnini-italian-food-lovers.html) previously reviewed on these pages.

2012 'RONDO' RONDINELLA ROSÉ
Producer: Freeman Vineyards
Variety: Rosé (100% Rondinella)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Hilltops, NSW
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 24 February 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry pink. Straightforward nose of cherry confiture, fresh raspberries. Dry, medium bodied, palate is much the same as the bouquet, simple cherry fruit, simple and direct. Clean, fresh and uncomplicated rosé for drinking during the warmer months. Decent enough, but there are more interesting rosés out there for similar money.
Score: 14/20

2012 SCHWARZ DUST KICKER ROSÉ - IN THE PINK

Here in Australia, we have been fairly slow to crack on to the rosé phenomenon. Whether it’s because wine with a pink hue simply isn’t ‘Strine’ enough, or it isn’t embedded in our culture as it is in Provence, who can say? Until relatively recent times, rose simply hasn’t taken ahold in the mindset of Australian wine producers, notwithstanding our warm Mediterranean climate and pan-Asian cuisine.

Charles Melton was the first to give rosé more than a derisive sneer with its highly successful Grenache-based Rosé of Virginia. However, by the standards of the delicate, onion skin coloured rosés of France’s south, it is closer to a dry red.

As a wine style, rose is approaching the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris/Grigio, especially among female drinkers. In particular, the market (at least at the premium end) has gravitated toward pale coloured, dry rosés of Provence.

The ‘Dust Kicker’, from small Barossa Valley producer Schwarz is not dissimilar to many southern French rosés. Pale coral in colour, it displays a gently aromatic nose of red fruits. Bone dry, the wine is medium bodied and extremely well balanced. While not overly complex, it delivers what many want from a rosé; satisfying refreshment, a wine that can be drunk on its own or with pretty much any summery food be it a light salad, steamed fish or steak grilled on the barbecue.

2012 DUST KICKER ROSÉ
Producer: Schwarz Wine Company
Variety: Rosé (Grenache 60%, Mourvèdre 40%)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 1 January 2013

Tasting Note:
Pale coral pink. Fresh and clean nose of redcurrant and cranberry, floral notes. Dry and savoury, medium bodied, palate much the same as the nose, well balanced acidity. Very clean, pure and focused. Proper ‘adult’ rosé that drinks extremely well.
Score: 16/20

2011 CANTINA ZACCAGNINI CERASUOLO D'ABRUZZO - AN ITALIAN FOOD LOVERS ROSÉ

At one time eschewed by serious wine drinkers, rosé continues its ascent as the wine style of choice for many, especially during the summer months. As rosé has emerged as a serious player on the wine scene, consumers have been conditioned to think that ‘quality’ rosé must be relatively pale in colour, with the delicate onion-skin hue that typifies the rosés of Provence.

While it may be true that Provencal rosés are among the world’s best, we shouldn’t be confined to one style, particularly when it comes to enjoying wine with food. This example from Abbruzzo in central Italy is far deeper in colour than the rosés of south-eastern France, but it is by no means inferior. Made from the Montepulciano grape, it is bone dry, displays excellent depth of flavour (raspberry, dark cherry) and possesses a touch of grip on the finish. It is an entirely convincing, food friendly rosé that will suit any number of dishes from a basic charcuterie platter, a light salad, pasta and even a steak off the barbecue. Best of all, at a modest 12% ABV, one can enjoy a few glasses without falling victim to the summer sun.

2011 MONTEPULCIANO ROSÉ
Producer: Cantina Zaccagnini
Variety: Rosé (100% Montepulciano)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 12%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 11 December 2012

Tasting Note:
Raspberry red. Clean nose of dark cherry, raspberry, touch of animal fur. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, quite meaty, red berry fruit, subtle touch of grip on the finish. Although deeper in colour than the current style of rosé that is in vogue, the wine displays good depth of flavour and is extremely food friendly.
Score: 16+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BEST'S GREAT WESTERN

Historic Best’s winery, founded way back in 1866, is an Australian icon. A visit to Best’s is like taking a step back in time, with a number of original buildings, and vines that date back to the late 1800’s. Take a walk out the front of the cellar door and you’ll see 130 year old Dolcetto vines that were originally thought to be Malbec.

As a family-owned winery, Best’s has always tended to steer away from the norm. It is one of few wineries in the world to release a single varietal Pinot Meunier. Recent years have seen a marked improvement in the white wines at Best’s. The Rieslings and Pinot Gris are all excellent examples, albeit the flagship House Block Riesling (bottled off-dry in a Germanic style) is not cheap at $35.

Although Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown, the real star here is the Shiraz, a grape that was seemingly made for Great Western. The flagship Thomson Family Shiraz is without a doubt one of Australia’s best. At around $150 it is no bargain, but it compares favourably with many other luxury cuvees. Bin 0 Shiraz is a benchmark of its style; it’s all about textural elegance, forest berry fruit, tar and anise – sophisticated stuff indeed. Sadly, it is no longer the bargain it once was.

Bin 1 Shiraz, the newcomer in the line-up, delivers excellent value for money, and is the way to go for those seeking value. It should improve with cellaring for up to a decade.

2008 PINOT NOIR ROSÉ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $15.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright summery strawberry fruit on the nose. Dry and elegant, holding up well for a 3 year old rosé. Crisp and vibrant. Good length. Another good example of how far Australia has progressed with rosé as a style.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
The 2011 is the first official release of this wine. Pale silvery lemon. Typical Pinot Gris nose of red and green apples. Touch of lychee. Dry and elegant, good fruit intensity. Vibrant lemon citrus acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale, almost water white. Aromatic nose of Granny Smith apples, slightly floral. Medium dry, touch of spritz. Easy going style that would be well suited to moderately spiced Asian cuisine.
Score: 16/20

2010 HOUSE BLOCK RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 10.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Lemon sherbert and Granny Smith apples on the nose. Off-dry, good fruit intensity, once again green apples and lemon citrus. Slightly richer in texture than the basic Riesling. Lively acidity on the finish. A bit expensive for what it is.
Score: 16/20

2009 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT MEUNIER
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Meunier
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Meaty nose, rhubarb, cherry. Dry, medium bodied. Elegant, pure and savoury, dark cherry fruit. A nasty wine to taste blind!
Score: 16/20

2010 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Vibrant nose of cherries. Dry and elegant, quite light and savoury. There’s a light hand at work here, the wine comes across as being unforced. Dark cherry fruit again on the palate. Quite pleasant, albeit not particularly complex.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 OLD CLONE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $60.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From a single vineyard planted in 1867. Cherries and strawberries on the nose, together with sandalwood. Weighter and fuller in body than the Estate Pinot Noir. Slightly stalky edge. Decent length. A touch expensive.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Kirsch and fruit of the forest compote. Dry, medium bodied, gentle raspberry and boysenberry fruit. Not particularly intense or varietal, but clean and well made.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Intense raspberry red. Bold and flamboyant nose of tar, boysenberry, blueberry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, very elegant and fine. Ripe and sweet fruited to start, but finishes dry with structured tannins. Elegant and very impressive. Excellent value for money.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GREAT WESTERN BIN 0 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $75.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Slightly reticent nose; smoky oak, licorice, raspberry coulis, brambly fruit. Quite serious. Dry, slightly richer and fuller than the Bin 1. Concentrated essence of Shiraz. Firm structured tannins frame the finish which is long. Holds out great promise for the future.
Score: 18/20

2009 SPARKLING SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Crown cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Brambly fruit compote. Fruit sweetness upfront. Raspberry and plum laden fruit driven style that would be well suited to Chinese cuisine especially Peking Duck. 

Score: 16/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: DALWHINNIE

Nestled in the hills overlooking the village of Moonambel, the Jones family at Dalwhinnie has been quietly producing wines of exceptional quality for around 30 years.  There can be little doubt that Dalwhinnie Shiraz, a wine of elegance, finesse and complexity, is one of Australia's best.  Remarkably consistent, it delivers typical Pyrenees 'sweet and savoury' forest fruit, supported by judicious oak.

The Eagle Shiraz is a burlier version, dark, dense and brooding.  In recent years, two other super-premium Shiraz have joined the line up, Pinnacle, from high altitude vines grown over quartz, and

South West Rocks, from south-west facing vines grown over rocky soils.  The South West Rocks Shiraz is the star here, delivering real finesse and great purity.  At $80 per bottle, it doesn't come cheaply, but those with deep pockets might just be tempted to take a punt on a few.

Of the other wines in the Dalwhinnie line-up, the Chardonnay is an excellent example of the worked style, and the Cabernet Sauvignon has a long life ahead of it.  For those not able or willing to venture north of $50 per bottle, the Tin Pot range, 'bistro-style' wines designed for relatively early drinking are a good introduction to the Dalwhinnie house style.

For this punter, taking into account price and quality, there is only one way to go, the outstanding Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz.

2011 THE HUT ROSÉ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $20.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% Pinot Noir barrel fermented in used oak casks. Delicate and elegant strawberry and raspberry fruit. Finishes bone dry with good length.
Score: 16/20

2010 THE HUT PINOT NOIR
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
100% whole bunch fermentation. Slightly stalky nose of rhubarb and cherry, earth notes. Dry, medium bodied, elegant with straightforward creamy raspberry fruit.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 THE HUT SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $28.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Fruit is sourced from younger vines on the valley floor that tend to produce more generous yields than those at higher altitudes. The wine sees a short elevage in in 4-5 year old oak. Violet, cherries and cracked pepper. Very elegant and seamless. A class act for a bistro style wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CHARDONNAY
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $42.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Forward melon and apple fruit bound by high quality oak. Slightly creamy in texture. Altogether, a very fine Chardonnay that shows excellent balance and poise. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $58.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pretty perfumed nose of violets, cherries, plum and kirsch. Ripe sweet confit cherry and plum fruit leads the palate, which is medium bodied and elegant. Finishes long and savoury with suggestions of forest floor. All in all, this is an extremely well balanced and elegant Shiraz, already displaying considerable complexity. It deserves to be ranked as one of Australia’s best.
Score: 18.5/20

2008 MOONAMBEL CABERNET
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Although labelled Cabernet Sauvignon, there’s a small percentage of Cabernet Franc (5%) and Merlot (5%) blended into this premium wine. Alluring and attractive nose of cherry, plum and blackberry, reflected on the palate. Notwithstanding the velvet texture, powdery tannins provide ample structure and should ensure that the wine is relatively long lived. Finishes long and savoury.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 PINNACLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From the highest altitude vines on the estate, planted in 1987 over quartz. Vinified like a Burgundy in small open fermenters, prior to being transferred to 60% new oak for elevage. Dense plum and morello cherry fruit, smoky oak. Rich and full bodied, sweet fruited with fine grained seamless tannins. Oak is extremely well integrated in this highly polished wine. Touch of alcohol heat on the finish detracts ever so slightly.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 SOUTH WEST ROCKS SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2008
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $80.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From south-west facing vines planted over poor rocky soils in 1995. The wine receives similar vinification to the Pinnacle Shiraz. Quite a spicy nose with suggestions of bacon fat, floral notes. Elegant and suave, svelte texture, very elegant. Dark cherry and raspberry fruit carry the wine which is at one sexy and highly refined. Outstanding.
Score: 19/20

2005 EAGLE SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2005
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Price: $150.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 29 October 2011

Tasting Note:
For many years, this has been Dalwhinnie’s flagship wine, sourced from vines planted on the mid-slope. Bottled under cork, forthcoming releases will be sealed under screw cap. Brooding, bold and serious nose of dried Provencale herbs, plum and blackberry and woodsmoke. Dry and richly flavoured, but elegant. Beguiling mouthfeel with a lovely silky texture. Touch of aged complexity starting to show, though this wine should continue to develop for many years yet.
Score: 18.5/20