2010 LA LINEA TEMPRANILLO - THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD

There is sufficient evidence to suggest that the Spanish grape Tempranillo has a future in Australia. In its native Spain, it performs well in a number of sites and climates, in regions including Rioja, Navarra, Ribera del Duero and La Mancha. Better examples from Australia, such as those from Pondalowie Vineyards, capture the varietal essence of Tempranillo perfectly, combining plummy plumpness, with a savoury mid-palate and a lick of spice.

This effort from La Linea is bang on for varietal character; it is the sort of wine that is perfectly suited to the contemporary dinner table, be it with a Sunday roast, grilled meat straight off the barbecue and other dishes that suit our casual dining culture.

Made by Peter Leske, formerly of the Australian Wine Research Institute, with input from David le Mire MW, La Linea Tempranillo is sourced from two relatively cool sites in the Adelaide Hills. The wine sees maturation in seasoned oak barrels, allowing the fruit to take centre stage. In the glass, it is quintessential Tempranillo; plum, cherry, leather and tobacco vying for attention. There is a lot to like here, confirming the view that Tempranillo is a variety to look out for in the next decade.  

TEMPRANILLO 2010 
Producer: La Linea
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $27.99
Date tasted: 21 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Clean nose of plum, aniseed and clove. Dry, full bodied, plush and velvet mouthfeel, initially fruit driven, dominated by plum, cherry and damson, quickly moving to savoury (fig, leather, tobacco) on the mid-palate. Spice adds lift on the finish, which is framed by fine powdery tannins. Enjoy now and over the next 3-4 years.
Score: 16+/20

2004 CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS - LEBANON'S GIFT TO THE WORLD OF WINE

Chateau Musar stands as one of the world’s most famous wineries. Located in the sometimes war-ravaged Bekaa Valley, it has been producing distinctive and deservedly sought after wines for several decades.

Stylistically, Musar is somewhat idiosyncratic. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with southern French varieties including Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault, it is sometimes reminiscent of a southern Rhone. On others, it is a ringer for a quality Right Bank Bordeaux. Whatever the case, there is a distinctive ‘Musariness’ that distinguishes Chateau Musar from the rest of the wine world.

Hochar Pere et Fils, the second wine of Chateau Musar, is a good introduction to the label. While it doesn’t possess the depth or complexity of the ‘Grand Vin’, there is a definite Musar character, reflected in the slightly nutty nose and silky palate. It is a wine that is well matched to lightly spice cuisine – a Lamb Tagine would be perfect.  

2004 HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 
Producer: Chateau Musar
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $37.99
Date tasted: 13 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Interesting nose of cherry, damson, leather, fig and grilled chestnuts. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, very silky in texture, cherry, plum and fig, cinnamon, ground nutmeg.
Score: 16/20

N.V. LA GOYA MANZANILLA - WHO NEEDS CHAMPAGNE?

Manzanilla and Fino are among the greatest aperitifs in the wine world. Few drinks have the ability to stimulate the palate as these great Sherries from the south of Spain. Matured under a film of yeast known as flor, the wines possess a salty edge. There are no better wines than Manzanilla or Fino to match with salty foods like olives and anchovies. In Jerez and Sanlucar de Barrameda, one is also likely to enjoy a chilled copita with fried fish, langoustines or Jamon Iberico.

La Goya is one of a number of well established Manzanilla labels. Notwithstanding its 15% ABV, it is ever so easy to drink, particularly on a hot summer’s day. It is bright, breezy, vibrant and refreshing, one of Spain’s gifts to the wine world.  While it may lack the punch and bracing saline freshness of the very best Manzanilla's such as Argueso's San Leon and the remarkable Sherries from Equipo Navazos, there's plenty to enjoy here. 

NV LA GOYA MANZANILLA 
Producer: Bodegas Delgado Zuleta
Variety: Fortified Wine - Sherry
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $17.99
Date tasted: 6 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery white. Fresh nose of sourdough, ozone, lemon zest. Dry, medium bodied, slightly salty on the palate, hints of sourdough/bakers yeast. A wine that stimulates the palate. Not as punchy as some Manzanillas, but one can't complain.
Score: 16/20

2010 SWEETWATER SHIRAZ - QUINTESSENTIALLY HUNTER VALLEY

Former Tyrell’s chief red winemaker Andrew Thomas has built up a strong following for his outstanding portfolio of distinctive single vineyard Semillons and Shiraz. Many consider the Sweetwater Shiraz to be the standout Shiraz in terms of quality and value. The 2009 vintage is a superb example of Hunter Valley Shiraz, combining elegance and finesse, with a multi-layered palate and a panoply of flavours. Notwithstanding its immediate attractiveness, it possesses considerable underlying structure, guaranteeing a long future.

The 2010 follows in similar vein, just medium in body and elegantly composed. However, at this point in time, the tannins are somewhat more marked and assertive. There is excellent depth of fruit, but the wine doesn’t quite reveal the same complexity as the 2009, at least at this point in its evolution.

The 2010 Sweetwater Shiraz is a wine that will demand patience to allowr the tannins to resolve somewhat. While it might not be quite in the league of the brilliant 2009, it is a high quality and affordable example of Hunter Valley Shiraz.

2010 SWEETWATER SHIRAZ 
Producer: Andrew Thomas
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $34.99
Date tasted: 28 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby, but transparent at the core. Bright nose of boysenberry, damson, licorice and star anise. Medium bodied, quite glossy in texture, touch simpler on the palate than the nose with summer berry fruit to the fore. Tannins are chalky and quite assertive, becoming increasingly so over the course of the bottle.
Score: 16.5+/20

2011 MICHAEL HALL STONEWELL VALLEY ROUSSANNE - DELIVERS AGAIN

We have previously reviewed the 2010 vintage of Michael Hall’s Roussanne on these pages. The 2011 follows in a similar line, with an immediately complex and highly varietal bouquet and palate. It is an elegant yet full flavoured wine with notes of stonefruit and honeysuckle.

Once again, this bottle underlines just how well suited Roussanne is to Australia's warmer regions and how food friendly it can be. Kudos to Michael Hall for showcasing the Roussanne grape. One hopes that many others will follow.

2011 STONEWELL VALLEY ROUSSANNE
Producer: Michael Hall
Variety: Roussanne
Vintage: 2011
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.99
Date tasted: 29 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Lemon yellow with golden glints. Inviting, varietal and immediately complex nose; melon, pear, fig, honeysuckle and mace. Dry, medium bodied, the nose flows through to the palate, together with toasted almond meal. Distinctive, varietal and very food friendly. Should develop in bottle for up to 5 years.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 KELLEREI KALTERN GEWÜRZTRAMINER - DOESN'T QUITE IGNITE

Kellerei Kaltern, located in the alpine region Alto Adige in northern Italy, is one of Italy’s leading cooperatives. With more than 440 members, it bottles a wine range of wines, with a particular focus on aromatic white varieties and typical northern Italian black grapes (Pinot Nero and Lagrein, among others).

When it comes to the aromatic varieties, northern Italy provides a unique expression, typically lighter body, but with greater tension and glacial purity than one sees in examples from Alsace. At their best, they are among the most distinctive and attractive white wines produced anywhere in the wine world.

The 2010 Gewürztraminer from Kellerei Kaltern captures the varietal essence of the grape in the form of lychee and rose petal. However, it lacks that allure and poise that the best wines from this part of northern Italy possess. There’s a decent among to enjoy here for those who enjoy an occasional but infrequent dalliance with Gewürztraminer, but there’s not quite enough to merit a second bottle purchase.

2010 GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Producer: Kellerei Kaltern
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alto Adige, Italy
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Plastic cork
Retail Price: $29.99
Date tasted: 23 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow. Moderately aromatic nose of lychee, candied apples, touch of rose petal, peppery spice. Slightly off dry, quite textured palate, medium in body, lychee, green apple, slight confected edge, finishes clean with moderate length. Acidity is well integrated and sufficient to provide balance. Varietal, but could do with greater intensity on both the nose and palate.
Score: 15/20

2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DE PY - NEW WAVE BEAUJOLAIS

Jean-Marc Burgaud is one of a number of growers at the forefront of quality Beaujolais. For many years, Beaujolais, thanks in no small part to Beaujolais Nouveau, has been stereotyped as a fun but not particularly serious wine. However, over the past decade, the landscape has changed, thanks to a number of dedicated producers who have sought to maximize the potential of the Gamay grape and to express the terroirs of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The entrance of major players from Burgundy to the north, including the likes of leading merchant house Louis Jadot, has also played a part in ‘raising the bar’ in Beaujolais.

Burgaud’s Morgon Côte de Py is an assemblage, made from fruit sourced from several sites on the schist-rich hill that is the Côte de Py near the village of Morgon. The wine is a brooding example of Morgon, relatively deep in colour, with an inviting nose of cherry/damson and flint. Medium in body, there is considerable depth of fruit and tannic structure, suggesting that the wine has plenty to give.

Much is said of Gamay’s ability to ‘go Pinot’. In the Penguin’s experience, this is rarely the case. As we see better and better examples of Cru Beaujolais, it seems that they are expressing their own identity, distinct of both Burgundy and the Rhône.  Those looking for authentic, terroir-driven and food friendly wines with genuine character and ability to age should look no further.

2010 MORGON CÔTE DE PY
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $36.99
Date tasted: 22 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Open nose of dark cherry and damsons, flinty/smoky mineral notes. Medium bodied, quite plush and sensual, starting to open up. The dark cherry/damson fruit flows through to the palate, which starts slightly sweet, but finishes with a pleasant sourness. The wine is framed by sandy tannins, which are largely masked by the fruit. Excellent length.
Score: 17+/20

2010 BANKS THARGO COONAWARRA MERLOT - NOT QUITE FROM THE RIGHT BANK

Merlot is a variety that, with the odd exception, we struggle with in Australia. Single varietal Australia often lacks the exoticism of the best examples from Bordeaux, and all too infrequently lacks for varietal definition. While many Australian Merlots are round, supple and smooth, they rarely excite.

This example, from small Coonawarra producer Banks Thargo just about succeeds. It is most definitely varietal, with plum and cherry fruit to the fore. Earthy notes confirm its Coonawarra origin. There’s a fair bit to enjoy about this elegant Coonawarra Merlot, the only downside being that it fades away slightly on the finish.

2010 MERLOT 
Producer: Banks Thargo
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2010
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap

Price: $19.99
Date tasted: 16 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Clean and varietal nose of plum, morello cherry, touch of background oak, earthy notes. Medium bodied, bright plum and cherry, well integrated acidity. A decent wine with good varietal character, but tires slightly over the course of the bottle.
Score: 15/20

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC - SAVVY BY NAME ONLY

Bannockburn Vineyards long ago established itself as one of Australia’s leading producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Now under the winemaking guidance of New Zealand-born Michael Glover, Bannockburn continues to flourish. It does so by emphasizing individuality and expressing the importance of site. It is fair to say that Bannockburn, particularly with Michael Glover at the winemaking helm does not follow a prescriptive rule book.

Bannockburn’s Sauvignon Blanc is a case in point. For one, it is not 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is blended in for aromatic lift, and Chardonnay for textural weight. Moreover, the wine is partially fermented in barrel; French oak and Italian acacia. The result is an arresting wine that is as much about texture as it is about flavour.

Forget about commercial New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Forget about Sancerre. This Friuli-inspired wine will challenge those who have cast aspersions toward Sauvignon Blanc; though to be truthful, the identity of the dominant grape variety is incidental here. This is an intelligently put together and immaculately crafted contemporary dry Australian white wine. One hopes it’s not too long before varietal labelling can be dispensed with, allowing the wine to be whatever the vineyard, vintage conditions and Michael Glover’s whim permit.

2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $29.99
Date tasted: 8 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Lifted aromatic nose of freshly chopped herbs, lemon zest, smoky overtones. Medium bodied, developing palate weight as it warms up in the glass, quite a textural wine, slightly herbaceous, lemon/grapefruit citrus, oak very much in the background, lending texture and structure. Finishes long with fine acids.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 CHÂTEAU CAILLETEAU BERGERON TRADITION - BORDEAUX FOR THE VALUE CONSCIOUS

There are literally thousands of producers in Bordeaux, the world’s largest contiguous wine producing region. The spotlight continually falls on several dozen Cru Classes and Right Bank equivalents. Little thought is given to the many hundreds of producers, mostly located on modest terroir, these days producing wine of a very good quality. Indeed, it is ironic that the traditional Bordeaux wine-buying public laments sky-rocketing prices for the region’s superstar properties while ignoring many of its great values.

Based in Blaye, Château Cailleteau Bergeron is one such property that is producing good quality modern-styled wine in Bordeaux. The Tradition Rouge, its entry level red cuvee, is a blend of Merlot (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Matured primarily in stainless steel tanks, it expresses Merlot on the way only Bordeaux can. Although a relatively simple wine, it is food friendly, savoury and, equally importantly, true to type. It’s the sort of wine that reminds us wine nerds why we got into wine in the first place.

2009 CHÂTEAU CAILLETEAU BERGERON TRADITION 
Producer: Château Cailleteau Bergeron
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 2009
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $34.99
Date tasted: 8 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Forward nose of morello cherry, plum and spice. Medium bodied, cherry confiture, dark plums touch of wood-spice. Not particularly complex, but displays plenty of character and will suit many dishes. Drops away a little on the finish, but holds up pretty well.
Score: 15.5/20