POONAWATTA 'THE EDEN' RIESLING - YOU'D BETTER ADAM & EVE IT!

The oldest vines at Poonawatta Estate date back to 1880. These vines are the source for a super-premium Eden Valley Shiraz, which sells for well over $70 per bottle. Riesling wasn’t planted until the 1970’s, not long after the present day owners bought the estate.

As we all know, the Eden Valley is a source of excellent Riesling, and Poonawatta’s ‘The Eden’ is no exception. True to Eden Valley style, it is more delicate than Clare Valley Rieslings, with fresh crisp green apple fruit sitting alongside the usual lemon and lime. There’s also a line of chalky minerality, adding complexity. Although the wine is delivering plenty of pleasure now, it should flesh out and develop in bottle for at least a decade.

2010 ‘THE EDEN’ RIESLING
Producer: Poonawatta
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2010
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $25.00
Date tasted: 23 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Bright, fresh and aromatic nose; apple, lemon zest, lime peel, green apples. Slightly honeyed edge. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and vibrant, lemon sherbet, lime and Granny Smith apples. The long finish is carried by mouth tingling acidity. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2009 MICHELINI BARBERA - THE MICHELINI MAN

The Michelini’s are one of many northern Italian families who settled in the Alpine and King Valleys in the two decades after World War 2. Like many Italian immigrants in the region, they initially grew tobacco, before making the transition to grape growing in the early 1980’s. In 1997, a winery was built and the first wines bottled under the Michelini label were released.

As one would expect, there is a strong Italian influence here, with Pinot Grigio, Barbera, Sangiovese and even a little Teroldego (presumably the only Australian plantings of this northern Italian variety) produced.

Save for a couple of reserve bottlings, the wines released under the Michelini label are keenly priced at a dollar or two under $20. These aren’t eye-catching or point chasing wines, but well made wines of a good commercial quality. The Barbera is fermented and matured exclusively in tank and displays bright plum and cherry fruit typical of the variety. It’s not overly exciting or complex, but works well tomato-based pasta dishes and gourmet pizza.

2009 BARBERA
Producer: Michelini
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alpine Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $18.50
Date tasted: 24 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Clean nose of black cherry and plum, reflected on the palate, which is relatively straightforward. This is a relatively simple but well made ‘trattoria’ wine that sits comfortably alongside rustic Italian cuisine.
Score: 15/20

POBBLEBONK - TWO FROGS.......

Pinot Grigio is a variety that has literally exploded in terms of planting and sales in Australia in the past decade or so. Drinkers seem to be won over by the grape’s relatively modest acidity and, as is the case in most commercial expressions, relatively simple pear drop fruit profile.

Yet there are a growing number of serious examples of Pinot Grigio/Gris in Australia, notably from cool regions such as the Mornington Peninsula, King Valley and Adelaide Hills. Hitherto, Australian examples of Pinot Grigio have almost exclusively been bottled as single varietal wines. However, the innovative producers of Italy’s north-east often use it as a blending grape, particularly alongside Riesling and Chardonnay.

Pobblebonk (which refers to the evening chorus of fornicating frogs) is an Australian take on the great white blends of north-east Italy. By and large the wine succeeds, each component part adding rather than drowning each other out. It possesses lifted aromatics with a touch of spice lending complexity. While drinking well now, it should develop in bottle for up to 5 years.

2010 POBBLEBONK
Producer: Quealy Wines
Variety: Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat Giallo
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 15 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Lifted aromatic bouquet of lemon, green apples, Nashi pears and lifted spice. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, apple and pear to the fore. The palate is carried by well balanced acidity. Good length.
Score: 16+/20

2010 TOMMY RUFF SHIRAZ MOURVEDRE - MR NATURAL

Shobbrook Wines has been associated with ‘natural wines’ camp. Certainly, there is an ethos at play here that eschews intervention and favours nature. As is increasingly the case here in Australia, the wine sees fermentation with indigenous yeasts. The use of sulphur dioxide is kept to a minimum, with just a small dose added at bottling to act as an antioxidant.

Where the Tommy Ruff Shiraz Mourvèdre differs from some so-called ‘natural wines’ (which can, at times, be remarkable) is that it is 100% clean, fresh and vinous. What is most impressive about the wine is that it sits so far outside of the Barossa Valley norm, and in a good way. Nosing the wine, one gains an impression that it can only be from a cool region, Shiraz (perhaps we should say Syrah) with a distinctly peppery and meaty edge, the Mourvèdre contributing a gamey quality.

In the mouth, the wine is full flavoured and fresh, but remarkably dry, savoury and elegant. Barossa fruit bomb it is most certainly not. Unlike some modern wines that are made ‘on the edge’ there is no sense of artifice here. It is an exciting insight as to just what can be achieved from one of Australia’s warm climate regions when one dares to be different.

2010 TOMMY RUFF SHIRAZ MOURVÈDRE
Producer: Shobbrook Wines
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 20 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Intense nose of freshly ground black pepper, charcoal, tar, meat, hung game and blackberry. The palate is medium bodied and savoury, raspberry to the fore together with meat/game and black pepper. There’s real elegance here, and a genuinely savoury quality that belies the wine’s warm climate origin. Good length.
Score: 17.5/20

WHAT'S THE STORY........?

The Story is very much a modern one; a metropolitan winery sourcing fruit from the Grampians region, making wines that are intended to tell a ‘story’. In the case of the 2009 Associates Grampians Shiraz, there is no doubt that the wine has captured a sense of place; the bright dark berry fruit and medium body are immediately suggestive of western Victoria Shiraz.

This is a well made wine that does what it says on the label. It is clean and well poised, with good fruit intensity and all elements in balance. However, it doesn’t quite ignite or excite in the way that truly interesting wine has the ability to do. To be fair though, that’s a lot to ask of a wine that retails for under $25.

2009 ASSOCIATES GRAMPIANS SHIRAZ
Producer: The Story Wines
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Grampians, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 14 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Bright nose of black cherry and blackberry, smoky notes. Straightforward palate of black cherry and blackberry fruit, touch of liquorice and star anise on the finish. Well balanced acidity and tannins. It is a well made example of western Victoria Shiraz that perhaps lacks a bit of complexity.
Score: 15/20

CRAWFORD RIVER YOUNG VINES RIESLING - A YOUNG'UN AND A GOOD'UN

Over the past three decades, Crawford River has established itself as arguably the finest producer of Riesling in Victoria. Based in the cool climate region of Henty in the state’s south-west, Crawford River typically produces two Rieslings. The flagship Riesling is made from fully mature vines, planted in the 1970’s. This ‘Young Vines’ bottling draws on fruit from 11-year old vines.

There is a real sense of coolness about this wine, reflected in the steely nose, crystalline purity and very fresh lime, apple and floral aromatics. The palate is racy and fine, cut by a line of vibrant acidity. It is a high quality Riesling that should develop very well in bottle for up to 10 years, perhaps longer.

While it may not possess the richness or intensity of the flagship bottling, there is a lot to like about Crawford River’s Young Vines Riesling.  Lovers of Riesling take note!

2011 YOUNG VINES RIESLING
Producer: Crawford River
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.99
Date tasted: 14 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery green. The nose possesses steely crystalline purity; kaffir lime leaf, lime peel, green apples, floral lift. Dry, medium bodied, very fresh and vibrant, quite racy, with a prickle of acidity running through the wine. Crisp and crunchy Granny Smith apples, pithy grapefruit. Finishes long.
Score: 16.5+/20

2011 QUEALY AMPHORA FRIULANO - WHAT HAVE THE ROMAN'S DONE FOR US?

The Friulano grape produces highly sought after wines in Italy’s north-east. Bound by the Alps to the north, Adriatic Sea to the south and the Slovenian border on the east, the state of Friuli is the source of many of Italy’s greatest wines. Over the past 20 or so years, consumers outside of Italy have started to take notice of these wines, reflected in their rise to prominence on the lists of fine dining restaurants.

The past decade has witnessed a growth in the interest in Italian varietals in Australia. Several years ago, Kathleen Quealy, formerly of t’Gallant, planted Friulano on the cool maritime influenced Mornington Peninsula, believing that it shared certain factors in common with Friuli’s rolling hills.

Rather than settle for making a ‘safe’ expression of the variety, fermented in the controlled environment of stainless steel tanks, she opted to use clay amphorae. Although the use of these vessels dates back to Roman times, they have been used by a number of ‘edgy’ contemporary producers in Italy for a good number of years. One such producer is the legendary Josko Gravner, the man behind some of Friuli’s most sought after wines.

The Quealy 2011 Amphora Friulano captures the aromatic essence of the grape variety, and delivers an arresting palate marked by a touch of grip on the finish. Although it could perhaps do with a touch more weight, it will be an interesting wine to follow as the style develops over the next few years.

2011 AMPHORA FRIULANO
Producer: Quealy Wines
Variety: Friulano
Vintage: 2011
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 12.8%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.99
Date tasted: 18 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Fresh aromatic nose of apple blossom, white peach and apricot. Dry, medium bodied, very clean, steely palate with zingy acidity, crisp green apples, candied peel, apricots. Finishes with a touch of grip.
Score: 16/20

YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY...........SWEEEEEET!

Australian Chardonnay has come a long way in the past 10-15 years. Gone is the stereotype of overworked and overdone wines that have had pretty much everything other than the kitchen sink thrown at them. Restraint is the order of the day.

Burgundian winemaking techniques are used, but with a more judicious hand. While many ferment in barrel, the use of new oak has been reined in. Malolactic fermentation has been pulled back in many instances to retain a better sense of freshness.

Helen’s Hill Single Vineyard Chardonnay, from the Yarra Valley, is one such wine that reflects the trend towards slimmed down Chardonnay. Made from fruit picked relatively early and fermented to less than 12 degrees alcohol, it is a mid-weight wine.

While the adoption of a ‘less is more’ philosophy has generally been a positive one in terms of progressing Australian Chardonnay, this particular wine is unfortunately so fruit sweet that the wine is overwhelmed. Many may not have umbrage with the fruit sweetness. Indeed the wine has received critical acclaim in some quarters. However, in this instance, the fruit sweetness is overbearing to the point that it drowns out some of the wine’s more positive attributes.

2010 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Helen’s Hill
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 11.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 16 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Medium greenish yellow. Clean nose, touch of smoky/nutty oak, honeydew melon and spiced pear, red apples. The palate is dominated by fruit sweetness to the extent that is verging on off-dry. Touch of green apple and melon fruit interwoven with quality oak. There are some interesting aspects to the wine, but it is unfortunately dominated by the up-front sweetness.
Score: 14/20

ZEMA ESTATE - KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY

Coonawarra producer Zema Estate has three flagship wines; a Shiraz and a Cabernet Sauvignon designated ‘Family Selection’ status and ‘Saluti’, a traditional Australian blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

The ‘Family Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon, is made from the estate’s best fruit, sees two years in small format French oak barrels.  11 years on from vintage, the 2001 ‘Family Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon is showing some signs of development. Although still relatively deep in colour, the nose is quite earthy, intertwined with mulberry and cherries. It is a prototypical Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon nose, at one complex and with a sense of place.

At this point in time, the promise of the nose doesn’t quite flow through to the palate, which is rather one dimensional, with prominent acidity and drying tannins on the finish. It is most definitely a wine for food.

By comparison to the estate’s standard 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, the ‘Family Selection’ doesn’t quite live up to its billing. It may well just need more time in bottle, but this taster wonders if there is enough depth of fruit to carry it for another 5+ years.

2001 FAMILY SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Zema Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2001
Region: Coonawarra, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 8 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Serious nose, quite earthy, mulberry, cherry, redcurrant and charcoal. Dry, medium bodied and savoury palate, moderate intensity, no lack of acidity, slightly sour fruit carries the finish, which is rather drying. Although quite open and complex on the nose, the palate seems reserved and shy. It might improve with further bottle age, but one wonders whether it has the stuffing to do so.
Score: 15+/20

2010 DOMAINE TROTEREAU QUINCY TRADITION - A QUINCY TO EXERCISE THE MIND

Quincy, a single grape (Sauvignon Blanc) white wine appellation is often seen as a “poor man’s Sancerre”, providing fruit forward wallet friendly expressions of Sauvignon Blanc. A relatively small appellation of 250 or so hectares, it rarely hits great heights these days. This was not always the case, as Quincy was the second appellation in France to receive official Appellation de Origine Côntrolée status.

The status these days of Quincy as a poor cousin to Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé has meant that many of its producers have set about producing fruity and lively, if not altogether captivating wines. Domaine Trotereau is one producer who eschews the norm. The domaine makes just two wines, ‘Tradition’ (from younger vines) and ‘Vielles Vignes’.

The domaine harvests later than any of its neighbours, resulting in weightier wines, sometimes with a touch of residual sugar. For this reason, the wines can merit ageing. Although the 2010 Quincy Tradition is open for business and delivering plenty of pleasure now, it has the structure to age for several years.

Stylistically, it is not a fruit driven wine. Yes, there are touches of melon, citrus and typical for Sauvignon, cut grass; but one also finds white flowers and even a certain creaminess. It is a food friendly wine, best suited to a simply grilled delicate white fish served alongside steamed new potatoes.

2010 QUINCY TRADITION
Producer: Domaine Trotereau
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $27.99
Date tasted: 8 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery green. Fresh and clean nose of grass cuttings, green herbs, honeydew melon, touch of lemon citrus. Quite a textured and weighty palate, chalky, grassy, lemony acidity on the finish which is long and dry.
Score: 16.5+/20