2013 LADERAS DE MONTEJURRA ‘EMILIO VALERIO’ - UNDERDOG

When it comes to Spanish wine, Navarra is not the most fashionable region. It well and truly sits in the shade of established heavyweights Rioja and Ribera del Duero and the uber-trendy north-west.

Hot and dry, Navarra has long been a reliable source of solid table wines of all colours, often employing international varieties, sometimes alongside Tempranillo and Garnacha. Producers such as Laderas de Montejurra fly the flag for Navarra.

‘Emilio Valerio’, a three-way blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha is an exceptionally well balanced wine, one that favours savoury over sweet fruit. Medium weight in build, it is a little tight and backward on this showing, a touch less open for business than on another recent showing. That said, there is plenty to like and, as is often the case with Spanish wines, the value for money proposition is a strong one.


2013 LADERAS DE MONTEJURRA ‘EMILIO VALERIO’
Producer: Laderas de Montejurra
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha
Vintage: 2013
Region: Navarra, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, truffle, tilled earth, dusty dried herbs (bay, rosemary). Dry, medium bodied, savoury, slightly earthbound, powdery cocoa-like tannins suggest the wine will benefit from a few years bottle age. Solid.
Score: 16/20

2012 TERRAZAS RESERVA MALBEC - BACK IN BLACK

Argentinean Malbec rolls off the tongue with almost the same ease and familiarity as Aussie Shiraz, so established has the style become. Terrazas, owned by luxury goods giant Moet Hennessy, has produced a Mendoza Malbec that is as Argentinen as a Lionel Messi hat-trick.

Deep crimson in appearance, it aboumds with back fruits, typical of the variety. It is sweet fruited and round, almost easy, but that is in keeping with the style. While there is a familial link between Malbec from Mendoza and Malbec from Cahors, the Argentinean example is altogether, richer, sweeter and rounder.

This is not a particularly complex wine, nor is it particularly intellectual. However, it is highly drinkable and it drinks extremely well with a thick rare steak, as it should!

2012 TERRAZAS RESERVA MALBEC
Producer: Terrazas
Variety: Malbec
Vintage: 2012
Region: Mendoza, Argentina
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of blackberry, dark cherry, tar and woodsmoke. Full bodied, sweet fruited up-front, flavour profile much the same as the nose. Round, soft and easy, gentle powdery tannin on the finish. Not particularly complex, but eminently drinkable and true to type. As one would expect, it works very well with a rare steak.
Score: 15.5/20

2011 ESPORAO QUINTA DOS MURCAS ‘ASSOBIO’ - WHEN THE RIVER RUNS DRY

Dry wines play as important a role in the Douro Valley these days as the great fortified wines that originally made the region famous. Given the quality of wines that can be produced at a competitive price, it should be no surprise.

Although Esporao’s base is in the south of Portugal, it has a presence in the Douro Valley in the form of Quinta dos Murcas. ‘Assobio’, a blend of varieties based on Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) showcaases the region to a tee.

2011 was an exceptional vintage in the Douro Valley, so good that it was widely declared. The dry wines also deliver. The 2011 vintage rendition of Esporao has excellent fruit intensity and good structure matched by ripe but savoury black fruits. It should develop in bottle, gaining complexity, for several years.

2011 ESPORAO QUINTA DOS MURCAS ‘ASSOBIO’ 
Producer: Esporao
Variety: Tempranilo et al
Vintage: 2011
Region: Douro Valley, Portugal
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 3 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of dark cherry, blackberry, star anise, oak char. Dry, medium bodied, excellent fruit intensity – real drive. Black fruit shrouded by a cloak of fine powdery tannin. Savoury on the mid-palate. Should improve in bottle over 5-6 years.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 TALTARNI BLANC DE BLANCS - SPARKLE OF MY EYES

As a category, Australian sparkling wine is more challenging ever. It lacks the sexy appeal of Champagne (yet wines made using the traditional method are just as expensive to make) and the light, frothy ease of Prosecco. Moreover, there are many sweet, commercial examples that do the style few favours.

In this context, the team at Taltarni should be congratulated for not only persevering, but continue to develop and improve the range. Taltarni Blanc de Blancs, from the 2011 vintage, is an example of how to get Australian sparkling wine right.

It starts with the raw materials, sourced from several cool climate regions in South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania. 2011 was a challenging year for dry table wines, but exactly what the doctor ordered for producing quality fruit for sparking wine.

The result is a wine that showcases pristine Chardonnay fruit – green apple, lemon zest and grapefruit pith. There’s little autolysis to speak of, but fruit takes centre stage here, admirably so. At just $23 per bottle, there are few better value sparkling wines in the market today particularly for single vintage, traditional method bubbles.

2011 TALTARNI BLANC DE BLANCS
Producer: Taltarni
Variety: Sparkling wine – Blanc de Blancs
Vintage: 2011
Region: Multi-regional, Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $23.00
Date tasted: 3 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Silvery lemon in appearance. Clean nose of crisp green apples, lemon and grapefruit pith. Dry and fresh, pristine in feel; green apple and lemon pith. No autolysis to speak of, but very clean, fresh, well balanced and, most importantly, dry. Excellent value for money.
Score: 16/20

2014 MURDOCH HILL ‘THE CRONBERRY’ SHIRAZ - I FOUND MY THRILLS...

Murdoch Hill is a relatively new player based in Oakbank in the Adelaide Hills.  On evidence thus far, it stands as one of the region’s best producers. The 2014 vintage release of ‘The Cronberry’ Shiraz follows hot on the heels on the excellent 2013 offering.

Together with the likes of Shaw & Smith and SC Pannell, Murdoch Hill presents a highly compelling case for Adelaide Hills Shiraz. No more than medium in body, it combines bright red berry fruit with a twist of pepper. It is neither northern Rhone nor traditional ‘Aussie Shiraz’, but a delicious well composed example of cool climate Adelaide Hills Shiraz.

Given the relatively modest price-tag, there’s a lot to like here, though the wine would benefit from another couple of years in bottle. Although Australia has been stereotyped for producing powerful, high alcohol Shiraz, the emergence of the Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley and Beechworth as serious sources of Shiraz puts pay to preconceptions. For those seeking Australian ripeness meets European elegance, there’s plenty to like with wines of this ilk.

2014 MURDOCH HILL ‘THE CRONBERRY’ SHIRAZ
Producer: Murdoch Hill
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2014
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 2 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Attractive nose of cherry, damson and freshly ground black pepper. Medium bodied, fine and elegant. Restraint is the operative word here. Tightly coiled at present. Needs another couple of years in bottle to reveal its full potential. Good example of modern cool climate Australian Shiraz and excellent value to boot.
Score: 16.5/20

NV DELGADO ZULETA LA GOYA MANZANILLA XL EN RAMA - I'M SO EXCITED!

Delgado Zuleta’s La Goya is a solid, spritely everyday Manzanilla. Drunk fresh, it is uncomplicated and lively. La Goya Manzanilla XL En Rama, smartly presented in a 500ml is an altogether more serious wine. For lovers of Fino and Manzanilla, it doesn’t come much better than this. ‘Nuff said! Buy a bottle and enjoy.

NV DELGADO ZULETA LA GOYA MANZANILLA XL EN RAMA
Producer: Delgado Zuleta
Variety: Palomino Fino
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 21 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Immediately complex nose of freshly baked sourdough, sea-spray/ozone, brine, freshly lemon zest, green apple, creamed honey and brioche. Medium bodied, fine, compact and elegant. Superbly balanced palate – everything is in the right place – every bit as complex on the palate as the nose with a similar profile. Outstanding.
Score: 18/20

2008 MASCARELLO BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO DI PERNO - KNOCK ON WOOD

In the past few decades Barbera has well and truly shaken off its workhorse tag to emerge as one of northern Italy’s truly great varieties. Barbera has an affinity with new oak, though the approach to so-called ‘super-Barberas’ varies from one producer to another.

The name Mascarello stands tall in Piedmont – Giuseppe Mascarello is one of the great traditionally minded Barolo producers, Monprivato being among the very best wines made in the region each year. The estate also does a pretty good job with Barbera.

The Barbera Santo Stefano di Perno 2008 is a lusciously endowed wine with a typical Barbera fruit profile overlaid by smoky oak. Approaching a decade on from vintage, there is a lot to enjoy about this wine, but there is sufficient depth to carry it for several more years. At under half the price of the Mascarello Barolos, it is a good alternative for those wanting to experience Mascarello without the expense.

2008 MASCARELLO BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO DI PERNO
Producer: Giuseppe Mascarello
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2008
Region: Piedmont, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 21 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Interesting nose of cherry, dark plum, freshly polished leather, woodsmoke and roasted spice. Medium bodied, supple in texture, rich but balanced and in proportion. Lovely mix of opulence and elegance. Oak is prominent, but well handled in a Rioja Reserva sort of a way. Typical Barbera acidity kicks on the finish. Plenty of time to run.
Score: 17.5/20

2012 TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO ‘CERVIDONI’ ROSSO PICENO - VOLARE

Rosso Piceno is far from the best known Italian appellations, yet for one reason or another, we have looked at two examples in the past few weeks on these pages. If this example is anything to go by, Rosso Piceno is worthwhile exploring in more detail.

This wine showcases both Montepulciano and Sangiovese with notes of cherries, dark chocolate and a slightly wild element, all of which work well together. It is very much an ‘Italian’ wine, with a pleasant rusticity. Enjoyed with appropriate food, one can not argue! 

2012 TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO ‘CERVIDONI’ ROSSO PICENO
Producer: Tenuta di Tavagnino

Variety: Montepulciano, Sangiovese

Vintage: 2012

Region: Le Marche, Italy

ABV: 14.0%

Closure: Natural cork

Retail Price: $28.00

Date tasted: 3 September 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of toasted fennel seeds, sage, dark chocolate and tar. Dry, medium bodied, dark, gamey, meaty and savoury – the nose flows through to the palate – starts round and silky, but finishes with rustic (not coarse) tannins. Slightly inky (not in a bad way). Very enjoyable when consumed in the right context.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 THE STORY WESTGATE VINEYARD MARSANNE ROUSSANNE VIOGNIER - BLENDED

We are seeing a growing number of Rhone-styled white blends appear on the market today, not just from expected regions such as the Barossa Valley. Indeed, in the shape of MRV (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier) blends, we have a white Rhone blend to sit alongside GSM’s. It is a blend that works extremely well, the Marsanne providing texture and white stonefruit, Roussanne acidity and Viognier its exotic apricot blossom aromatics.

Few in Victoria do the ‘MRV’ style better than Rory Lane under his label, The Story. The 2014 Westgate Vineyard Marsanne Roussanne Viognier is a restrained and classy expression of the genre that delivers equally on texture, flavour and aromatics. While there is plenty to like now, it should become more expressive with a further year or two in bottle.

2014 THE STORY WESTGATE VINEYARD MARSANNE ROUSSANNE VIOGNIER
Producer: The Story
Variety: Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
Vintage: 2014
Region: Grampians, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 25 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright goldish yellow. Aromatic nose of nectarine, pear, apple, orange zest and apricot blossom. Mid-weight in body, restrained for the style, gentle and supple, with good intensity and overall balance. Asssured and well balanced. Should develop well in bottle over 3-4 years.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY - DEAL

Over the past several years, the folks at Hoddles Creek Estate have built up a deservedly strong reputation for high quality and excellent value for money Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The 2014 Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay lives up to its predecessors. Made to the prevailing contemporary style of Yarra Chardonnay, acid provides the structure. However, there is more than enough fruit to flesh the wine out. Oak is very much in the background, lending gentle complexity.

There is a lovely blend of citrus, apple and stonefruit, with a subtle touch of roasted hazelnut and oak spice. The wine is crisp and fresh on the palate, suggesting only a small proportion of the wine went through malolactic fermentation.

This is a reference point for ‘value’ Australian Chardonnay. At a mere $20 per bottle, it is a genuine bargain.

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Hoddles Creek
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2014
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of nectarine, green apple and lemon zest. Touch of roasted hazelnut. Medium bodied, good fruit intensity, oak is barely perceptible – ‘just there’, fruit profile is much the same on the palate as the nose. Quality Australian Chardonnay in the modern idiom and excellent value for money.
Score: 16.5/20