NV EQUIPO NAVAZOS LA BOTA DE FINO 54 - EVERYONE'S A WINNER

We have looked at a number of Equipo Navazos releases on these pages and every single one has been a winner. Expensive they may be in the context of Sherry (which is massively undervalued as a category), they are relative bargains in their own right. They rank among some of the most complex and individualistic wines being released on the market today.

La Bota de Fino 54 is more than a run of the mill Fino; for one, the colour is deeper. Briny, saline ozone notes confirm that we are in Fino territory, but there are many other layers to this wine – grilled nuts, beeswax, acacia, orange zest and more……and more.

This is a wine that may not suit all tastes, and not everyone will ‘get’. For those happy to go along for the ride, the journey is more than worth it.

NV EQUIPO NAVAZOS LA BOTA DE FINO 54
Producer: Equipo Navazos
Variety: Sherry
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 8 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Golden amber. Hugely complex nose of beeswax/creamed honey, acacia, ozone, orange zest, candied ginger. Dry, lots going on – too much to nail down on paper! Quite superb. A real mouthful. Deserves to be the centrepiece of a meal, not just an aperitif that is drunk and forgotten. Superb.
Score: 18.5+/20

2010 TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI ROSSO PICENO SUPERIORE - TWO HEARTS THAT BEAT AS ONE

We are not generally accustomed to seeing Montepulciano and Sangiovese blended together. In the appellation of Rosso Piceno, the two go hand in hand. This example from Cocci Grifoni, possesses wonderful ‘could only be Italian’ aromatics in the shape of cherry, violet, truffles and a touch of mocha/dark chocolate.

With 5 years post-vintage, it is an elegant and compact wine, tannins fully resolved and silken in texture. This is very much ‘in the slot’ for current drinking and is perfectly suited to rustic Italian cuisine.

2010 TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI ROSSO PICENO SUPERIORE
Producer: Tenuta Cocci Grifoni
Variety: Montepulciano, Sangiovese
Vintage: 2010
Region: Abbruzzo, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 5 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Complex nose of dark cherry, violet, mocha/chocolate, earth and old wood. Dry, medium bodied, quite elegant and gentle. Tannins are fully resolved – very much in the zone for current drinking. Soft, supple and compact. Palate doesn’t quite have the excitement of the nose, but interesting nonetheless. Good wine for the money.
Score: 16/20

2013 QUINTA DO CRASTO TINTO - REVIVAL

For centuries, Portugal’s Douro Valley has been synonomous with the famous fortified wines of Oporto, particularly Vintage and Tawny Port. However, times have changed and demand for sweet and fortified wines, once revered across Europe, is not what it once was.

The region’s producers have had to adapt and change with the times, or face the reality of a rapidly shrinking market. Dry red and, to a lesser extent white, wines have been the saviour of the Douro Valley.

The region has a wealth of indigenous varieties and boasts a unique terroir, both of which lend themselves to the production of high quality dry table wine. Quinta do Crasto was one of the leading wave of producers in the region fashioning quality dry wines and develop good export markets for its wine.

The 2013 Quinta do Crasto Douro Tinto, one of several red wines in the range, is very much a modern, Old World meets New expression of the Douro Valley. It is fruit forward, with juicy red berry fruit with some stemmy, savoury notes on the mid-palate. The wine lends itself to relatively early consumption and could just as well be drunk on its own as with appropriate food.

 
2013 QUINTA DO CRASTO DOURO TINTO
Producer: Quinta do Crasto
Variety: Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
Vintage: 2013
Region: Douro Valley, Portugal
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 8 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Bold nose of raspberry jam and black cherries which both follow through on the palate. Fruit forward, moving to savoury in the mid-palate. Green peppercorns? Fine acidity carries the finish. Solid.
Score: 16/20

2012 KANONKOP KADETTE - KISS ME GOODNIGHT SERGEANT MAJOR

Cape blends are a distinctive style, unique to South Africa, with Pinotage at their core. As anyone acquainted with Pinotage will know, it its worst it can be vile; volatile, unpleasant tannins and with odd banana-like qualities. When its worst extremes are tempered, Pinotage can be rather pleasant, particularly when intelligently blended as in Kanonkop’s Kadette Cape blend.

Pinotage makes up just over 50% of this wine, the balance being filled by Bordeaux varietals. The result is a bright and savoury, harmonious wine that is delicious to drink. Tar and leather notes add genuine interest.

Given the breeding and proven pedigree of this wine, one could expect to pay $25 or thereabouts. At a mere $15 per bottle it is a dead set bargain. pice and tar follow. Quite classy and exceptionally good value for money.

2012 KANONKOP KADETTE
Producer: Kanonkop Estate
Variety: Cape Blend (Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Stellenbosch, South Africa
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $15.00
Date tasted: 7 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Engaging nose of tobacco leaf, plum, leather, slightly earthy. Medium bodied, sweet fruited up-front, leather, spice and tar follow. Quite classy and exceptionally good value for money.
Score: 16+/20

2014 TENUTA di TAVIGNANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE - BLACK STEEL

The author has long been a fan of Italian whites. Italy presents a compelling case as the world’s leading producer of premium white wines across. Verdicchio is one of its under-sung white grapes. We have already reviewed the excellent ‘Il Bacco’ from Fattoria Coroncino.

This wine, from Tenuta di Tavagnano, is a different expression of Verdicchio. It is steely and mineral, acidity providing its backbone and structure. There’s no lack of fruit, with lifted aromatics and wonderful depth of flavour on the palate.

In some ways this is a Chablis drinker’s Verdicchio – rapier-like in its cut. There’s plenty to like. Bring on the seafood!

2014 TENUTA di TAVIGNANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE
Producer: Tenuta di Tavignano
Variety: Verdicchio
Vintage: 2014
Region: Le Marche, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 30 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Intense perfumed nose of lemon flowers, citrus peel, Nashi pear and grapefruit pith. Dry, medium bodied, steely, real ‘cut and thrust’, lemon/grapefruit citrus, zippy and lively, crisp acidity. Good length. Made for seafood.
Score: 16/20

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR - NATURAL BLUES

Lucy Margaux is one of a small number of so-called in ‘natural wine’ labels in Australia. What to expect of an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir under this label? Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir can be a challenge at the best of times, the Hills perhaps being a touch too warm for this finicky variety.

In short, this is as good an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir one has ever tasted. For those who may associate ‘natural wines’ with oxidised, volatile muck, have no fear, this wine is extremely well made and is as clean as a whistle.

Unmistakably New World in style, it delivers complex florals and forest fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate, which is mid-weight and well composed. This is a delicious Pinot Noir that simply says, “Drink me!” Amen to that.

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Lucy Margaux
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 13.2%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 2 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Pretty nose of lilac, rose petal, cranberry, redcurrant and plum. Dry, medium bodied, sweet fruited up-front quickly moving to savoury; sour cherry and cranberry. Delicious. Good palate weight but by no means heavy. Clean as a whistle.
Score: 17.5/20

2012 IL PIMINO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA - SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

Primitivo performs well in the hot sun of Italy’s south. Based in Puglia, the heel of Italy, Primitivo di Manduria showcases the variety. As one would expect of a warm climate wine, it is high in alcobol, 15% in this instance. However, it is exceptionally well balance, showing no heat whatsoever.

While some examples of southern Italian Primitivo can deliver big up-front fruit and little else, ‘Il Pimono’ has real depth and interest. With air, the wine opens up to reveal spicy complexity behind baked cherry pie. This is an excellent reference point for Primitivo.

2012 IL PIMINO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
Producer: Il Pimino
Variety: Primitivo
Vintage: 2012
Region: Puglia, Italy
Alcohol: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 31 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of baked cherry pie, tar, roasted spice – complex and inviting. Full bodied, round and supple. Delicious mouthful of cola/sarsaparilla underlined by spice. Generously flavoured and well balanced.
Score: 16.5+/20

2013 EVEN KEEL SYRAH - SMOKIN' IN THE BOYS ROOM

In the past 15 or so years, the Canberra district has built a reputation for producing high quality, Rhone-styled Syrah. While Clonakilla has very much led the pack and steals most of the limelight, there are other labels from the region making very high quality wine.

Even Keel is somewhat of an anomaly, as it is actually based in Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. It’s Canberra District Syrah is an excellent example of modern cool climate Australian wine – attractively perfumed, medium bodied in build and made for food.

There’s a really smoky quality to the wine, not oak-driven, but presumably an expression of variety and site. It’s quite a delicious wine, made for a rib-eye steak on a Friday night!

2013 EVEN KEEL SYRAH
Producer: Even Keel
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2013
Region: Canberra District, Australian Capital Territory
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 18 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Prototypical Syrah (rather than Shiraz) nose of woodsmoke, charcoal, charcuterie, black fruits and cracked black pepper. Dry, medium bodied, very fine and supple tannins. Classy - impressive stuff! Showcases Australia meets Rhone Syrah to a tee.
Score: 17/20

2013 CANTINA DI PRIOCCA ARTIGIANO PRIMITIVO - HE AIN'T HEAVY....

Primitivo calls its home Puglia, the heel of Italy. A warm climate variety, it typically delivers a spiced Christmas cake in the glass with a generous dose of alcohol, reflecting its sun-baked origin.

This particular example delivers and elegantly composed expression of the variety. There’s not a huge amount of complexity on offer, but stylish spice-infused plum and dark cherry fruit in a mid-weight package. All in all, this is a solid, easy going wine that ‘does what it says’ with a modicum of style.

2013 CANTINA DI PRIOCCA ARTIGIANO PRIMITIVO
Producer: Cantina di Priocca
Variety: Primitivo
Vintage: 2013
Region: Puglia, Italy
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $22.00
Date tasted: 16 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby. Open nose of baked plum and Christmas cake. Mid-weight, quite gentle and easy; baked plum and confit cherry, anise and fennel. Round and easy. Solid food style.
Score: 15.5/20

2013 CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN MONTEPULCIANO - THE REAL THING

As has been discussed on these pages previously, Australia’s warm inland regions (Riverland and Riverina) would appear to have a sound future with Italian varieties. The likes of Aglianico, Nero d’Avola and Montepulciano seem to make sense in dry, warm regions, conditions that are not unlike those of their native Italy.

Calabria’s Private Bin Montepulciano is further proof of the ability of the Riverina to produce varietally sound, highly drinkable, food friendly wines that deliver a lot more interest than generic branded Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Keeping with the variety, the wine is deeply coloured and full flavoured. It boasted a richly flavoured palate of blue and black fruits underpinned by fine tannins. There’s plenty in the glass here for a sub-$20 wine and quality-wise, it more than holds its own.

2013 CALABRIA PRIVATE BIN MONTEPULCIANO
Producer: Calabria
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2013
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $18.00
Date tasted: 17 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Lifted nose of cherry and blackberry compote. Medium bodied, upfront sweet fruit moving to savoury on the mid-palate. Plum-skin, blackberry and blueberry. Fine tannins sit in the background. Good length. Excellent value.
Score: 16/20