THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART THREE - DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT

Even by the standards of Alsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has a large portfolio, with around 35-40 wines traversing the region’s noble varietals (and one or two that aren’t!), vineyards and residual sweetness levels.

The estate is based in the village of Turckheim roughly 15 kilometres north of Colmar. The estate style, if one was to typify it, favours boldly flavoured, powerful wines that need at least medium term cellaring to reveal their full potential. To some extent, the wines tend to be marked by power more than finesse, but this is a small criticism.

In this particular imbiber’s opinion, the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are in marked contrast to those of Trimbach, which tend toward austerity and a steely line of acidity when young. Some might find the generosity (and occasional high alcohol levels one encounters) of certain Zind-Humbrecht wines to be a touch excessive. But it is very much a matter of personal taste. Of the wines tasted on this visit, Gewurztraminer Hengst at 15% ABV was one of the real stars; powerful and rich, but balanced, stylish and complex.

2012 MUSCAT GOLDERT GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Muscat
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Located in the village of Guebschwir.
Densely textured. Typical ‘grapey’ Muscat character. Dry, quite rich, slightly oily. Long finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 ZIND
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Chardonnay (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Auxerrois)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Aged in new foudres. Use of Chardonnay, only allowed in Cremant d’Alsace, means that it has to be labelled as a Vin de Table.
Lifted nose of lime and grapefruit, touch of oak spice. Citrussy acidity up-front, stone-fruit on the mid—palate. Somewhat of an oddity in the realm of aromatic Alsatian wines.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 RIESLING HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Fruit grown on the plains of Turckheim.
Direct and straightforward on both the palate and nose. Seems a touch dilute. Key lime pie?
Score: 15/20

2012 RIESLING 'CLOS HAUSERER'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vines planted in 1973 and 1974.
Slightly closed. Delicate citrus aromatics, stonefruit. Quite textured on the palate. Structured. Not yielding much at present but shows promise.
Score: 16+/20

2011 RIESLING 'CLOS WINDSBUHL'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
2012 vintage is still fermenting! Grown on pure limestone at 250m elevation.
Direct nose of stonefruit and spice. Lovely underbelly of fine acidity. Showing the benefit of bottle age and starting to fill out. Very good.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Zind-Humbrecht owns seven parcels in Brand. Pink granite soils.
Delicate. Starting to come together. Zesty lemon/lime sherbet. Concentrated. Alive!! Real structure for ageing.
Score: 17/20

2012 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
11g/l residual sugar – slightly sweeter than the 2011.
Soft acid line. Open and forward. Not as compelling as the 2011.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Southern-most Grand Cru in Alsace. Volcanic soil. 350m-400m elevation.
Slightly baked character. Rich, flinty and smoky. Some real interest.
Score: 17/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Delicate. Medium sweet. Typical apple and pear fruit profile. Slightly pinched on the finish, A touch simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Elegant and delicate. Apple, pear and spice. Dry. Nice balancing acidity. Young and structured – needs time.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Freshly buttered toast. Lime/lemon, red apples and spice. More open than the 2012. Good.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS RANGE DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Open and inviting nose of baked apple pie. Medium sweet. Roundly textured. Sweet but balanced. Yum!
Score: 17/20


2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Gewürztraminer nose – lifted, musky and floral. Dry, round and creamy – very much a food style. Desperately needs appropriate food; onion tart perhaps?!
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER CALCAIRE
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Two parcels of younger vines, mostly from Hengst.
Coiled. Quite subtle. NOT in your face Gewürz. Off-dry, yellow plum, baked pear/apple.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HENGST GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Hengst is a late ripening site.
Dense and concentrated. Touch of Earl Grey tea. Funky and earthy. Real interest on display here. Medium sweet, quite spicy. Opulent but far from over the top. Well balanced.
Score: 17.5+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Concentrated, open and intense. Not as complex, but more restrained and elegant than the Hengst. Compact and stylish.
Score: 17/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES ‘TRIE SPECIALE’
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 6.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
More than 200g/l residual sugar. From the lower part of the Brand Grand Cru.
Golden yellow. Very intense and powerful. Rich baked fruit, raisins. Butterscotch and honey. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART TWO - DOMAINE WEINBACH

Domaine Weinbach, owned by the Faller family, is one of the great names in Alsace. Situated at the entry to the village of Kaysersberg with the imposing walled Clos des Capucins, the estate draws on fruit from the clos, as well as the nearby Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Furstentum and Mambourg, all of which are farmed biodynamically.

The domaine was recently rocked by the untimely and premature passing of Catherine Faller, one of two sisters who had for many years taken responsibility for day-to-day operations. As one of the world’s great female winemakers, her loss has been felt across the wine world.

As is the case with many Alsatian domaines, the range here is extensive, encompassing a wide range of varietals, sites and ripeness/sugar levels. On evidence of wines tasted at the domaine, and other wines enjoyed while in the region, quality is high across the board.

For this particular imbiber, the real stars of the show is the sweeter wines (the 2012 Gewürtztraminer Mambourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives and the 2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée d’Or Quintessence de Grain Nobles are both stunning wines). They combine a rich lusciousness with remarkable complexity and incredible finesse.

Gewürtztraminer has long been regarded a forté of Domaine Weinbach, reinforced the wines tasted at this visit. In the hands of Weinbach, Gewürtztraminer transcends the stereotype of rose petal and lychee, with stonefruit and baked apple also thrown into the mix – a variety that can be enjoyable, but rather tiring is transformed into a multi-faceted and compelling one at this address.

In sum, the wines of Domaine Weinbach serve to justify its lofty position in France’s wine consciousness. There is a clarity and sense of elegance that runs throughout the wines.

2012 PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
No new oak. Domaine Weinbach also make another Pinot Noir, Cuvée W, that sees partial maturation in new wood.
Bright cherry red. Light and fresh. Crème de mure, marzipan, cherry and rhubarb. Dry, ripe supple tannins, sour cherry. No lack of acidity. Good length.
Score: 16/20

2012 ‘CUVÉE THEO’ RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Weinbach

Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 1 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow in appearance. Open and aromatic nose of orange zest, stonefruit and crystallised ginger. Dry, medium bodied, zesty and fresh. Attractive blend of stonefruit and citrus with tangy acidity carrying the finish.
Score: 17/20

2013 RIESLING ‘CUVÉE THEO’
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Draws on 35 year old vines from the Clos des Capucins. Recently bottled.
Open and aromatic nose of grapefruit, peach, apple and pear. Direct and straightforward palate of crab apple/green apple and lemon citrus. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
From the upper part of the Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard. Not yet bottled.
Aromatic, slightly floral nose, white peach. Mineral. Delicate and elegant, green apple, peach, floral notes. Bright tingle of acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5++/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE. CATHERINE GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Tight and mineral. Floral – apple blossom, pear. Dry, medium bodied; pear, apple and white peach. Good length.
Score: 17+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RÉSERVE CLOS DES CAPUCINS
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Driest and lightest Gewürztraminer made at Domaine Weinbach.
Typical Gewürztraminer nose and palate. Quite light and easy. Not too phenolic. Good length and overall balance.
Score: 16.5/20 

2009 GEWÜRZRTRAMINER ALTENBOURG
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Lifted floral bouquet of rose petal and talc. Off-dry, excellent fruit intensity, stonefruit (yellow peach, nectarine), caramelised pineapple, touch of spice on the finish. Relatively low acidity. Good!
Score: 17/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Baked apple pie and streudel straight out of the oven. Slightly exotic edge – lychee. Medium sweet. Good fruit intensity. Lacking slightly on the mid-palate.
Score: 16/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER MAMBOURG GRAND CRU VENDANGES TARDIVES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Grown on clay/limestone soil, which lends the wine a velvet texture.
Gently aromatic nose – not too extrovert. Sweet but delicate. Lychee, rhubarb, white peach, Mirabelle, spice. Doesn’t cloy. Finishes very long! Outstanding.
Score: 18.5/20

2006 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Enormous concentration. Intense and exotic – apple, apricot, yellow plum and lychee. Sweet, elegant and fine.
Score: 18/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CUVÉE D’OR QUINTESSENCE DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 10.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Made from fruit grown below the Furstentum Grand Cru.
Intense and driven - apple crumble. Sweet, enormously concentrated, lovely sherbet-tang balances the sweetness and richness. Stylish and elegant. Exceptional.
Score: 19/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART ONE - DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS

Marcel Deiss is a 27 hectare domaine situated in the village of Bergheim, roughly 25 kilometres north of Colmar. In a region where single varietal wines dominate, Deiss has adopted an approach that emphasises on terroir expression, regardless of cepage. As such, it produces field blends, some of which use all 13 of the permitted Alsace grape varieties, white and red.

Interestingly, co-planted varieties flower at the same time. They are also picked at the same time and co-fermented. Deiss argues that co-fermentation provides for better integration. The estate’s entry level wines includes three mono-cepage wines; a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Gewurztraminer. Thereafter, it is vineyard name that takes centre stage.

Domaine Marcel Deiss is 100% biodynamic and is moving toward ‘model forestière’, which embodies the concept of ‘nature in harmony’. Trees have been planted both around and inside vineyards. The result thus far has been improved flowering.

The estate's holdings are focused around the village of Bergheim, including the Altenberg Grand Cru, save for Manbourg near Colmar and Schoenbourg in Riquewihr.

The wines of Marcel Deiss are not only among the best made in Alsace, but the best white wines made anywhere. Across the entire range, they manage a wonderful balance of powerful, intense fruit, vibrant acidity, elegance and complexity.

2012 ALSACE
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of all 13 permitted Alsatian varieties.
Bright aromatic nose of lychee and apple blossom. Very fresh and vibrant. Medium bodied, touch phenolic. Good fruit intensity. Spice carries the finish which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014
Tasting Note:
Sourced from fruit grown in Bergheim and the nearby village of St Hippolyte.
Delicate and steely citrus-laden nose. Elegant, refined and pretty. Very pure and driven. Lemon citrus, pear and apple on the palate. Delicious.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Off-dry, round and elegant. Very well balanced. A style that really works. Fine and long. Not oily or alcoholic.
Score: 16/20

2011 BERCKEM
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly with all other 12 Alsace varieties in the mix. All of the fruit comes from the village of Bergheim (Berckem is the old name for Bergheim). 15g/l residual sugar.
Attractive aromatic nose – definitely some Gewurztraminer or Muscat here. Touch of sweetness up-front, medium bodied, refined and elegant. Real style and verve on display here. Lovely melange of spice and exotic fruit. Delicious!
Score: 17/20

2008 BURLENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir with a contribution from all of the white Pinot varieties. 60% whole bunches. Fruit is sourced from a Premier Cru site which is at 280m elevation.
Mid-cherry red. Alluring nose of rhubarb and black cherry, distinctive note of black pepper. Real intensity and depth, brooding yet subtle. Definitely Pinot Noir of real quality, but not Burgundy. Stylish and suave. Un 'vin de sommelier'!.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 LANGENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Pinot Noir and Muscat from vines grown on granite soils in St Hippolyte.
Delicate nose of apple, floral notes, phenolic. Round, compact and elegant. Real drive and cut through the mid-palate. Round and with plenty of depth, yet elegant at the same time.
Score: 17/20

2011 ENGELGARTEN
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vineyard is located immediately behind the Deiss cellar in Bergheim. Blend of Riesling, the Pinots and Muscat.
Bold and flamboyant. A veritable apple tarte tatin of a wine. Rich and voluminous. Lots to enjoy.
Score: 17/20

2010 ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
South facing site located next to Engelgarten. Limestone soils. Two-way blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. 25g/l residual sugar.
Real lift, concentration and depth. Citrus and baked apple. Plenty of zing on the finish. Starts sweet, but finishes very fresh and dry. Delicious.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 SCHOFFWEG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling and various Pinots grown on soft calcareous sub-soil. Vineyard is located to the east of the Altenberg Grand Cru site.
Open nose of crème patissiere and key lime pie! Dry and mineral, touch austere, needs time! Structured and slightly backward. Touch of tannin. Nose is more open than the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 GRASBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
North facing site at 350m elevation. Blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
Aromatic and complex. Tightly coiled. Real depth and style. Steely acidity carries the finish.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GRUENSPIEL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep heavy clay soils. One third each of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. A long ageing wine that is typically austere and tight when young.
Brooding and voluminous. Lots of spice. Mineral rather than fruit. Not yielding a great deal at present. Wide and expansive – full bodied. Tastes like there could be Pinot Blanc in the mix?!? A big wine that needs time.
Score: 17??/20

2009 BURG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Small river runs through the vineyard, encouraging botrytis.
Off-dry. Citrus, dried apricot, peach and cumquat. Long line of fine acidity carries the finish. Quite brilliant!
Score: 18.5/20

2008 HUEBUHL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces high levels of botrytis early in the season. Blend of the Pinots and Muscat.
Bright golden yellow. Vibrant nose of quince, spiced apples and honeycomb. Medium sweet. Real fireworks in the mouth – a veritable explosion of flavour. Very complete and together. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

2011 MANBOURG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces wines with typically soft tannins. A regular source for sweet wines, but being windy botrytis rarely occurs.
Lime, pear, spice and crushed minerals. Elegant, medium bodied, very delicate and fine. Vibrant acidity. Delicate and pretty. Needs time.
Score: 18/20

2009 ALTENBERG DE BERGHEIM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Botrytis occurs late in the season every year. Picked 5 weeks later than Manbourg. Blend of all 13 permitted varieties. 70g/l residual sugar.
Very pretty, aromatic and perfumed. Medium sweet, delicate and fine. Quite backward – not as expressive as the 1er Crus at this point in its evolution. Will literally flower with bottle age.
Score: 18.5/20

2009 SCHOENBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Aromatic White blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Site is located in Riquewihr. Sourse of some of the longest ageing wines in Alsace. Clay/gypsum soil high in sulphur. Susceptible to botrytis. Blend of Riesling and 20% of the other 12 Alsace varieties.
Pretty, elegant and fine – featherweight in texture. Real depth, concentration and intensity, yet remarkably delicate and elegant. A truly outstanding white wine.
Score: 19.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART FOUR - ALSO TASTED....VILMART, PIERRE PETERS + MORE

See below notes from a smattering of other top grower and small producer wines tasted while in Champagne (plus one purchased in Lyon in 2013). This eclectic selection confirms in the most positive way that there has never been a better time to drink premium Champagne.

NV VILMART GRANDE RESERVE
Producer: Vilmart
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Premier Cru Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay grown in Rilly-la-Montagne.
Bright lemon yellow with greenish tinge. Fine and persistent bead. Clean and fresh bouquet of crystallised fruit (honeydew melon, orange, cumquat). Nutty notes emerge with air. Crystallised fruits flow through to the palate which is fine, fruity and elegant.
Score: 16/20

NV BENOIT LAHAYE BRUT NATURE
Producer: Benoit Lahaye
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 29 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. No dosage.
Copper tinged hue. Expressive and intense nose of red fruits interwoven with bright citrus. Weighty, rich palate of real substance and depth. Delicate red fruit carries the palate, underlined by grapefruit citrus.
Score: 17/20

2005 PIERRE GIMMONET BLANC DE BLANCS OENEPHILE 1ER CRU
Producer: Pierre Gimmonet
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
No dosage.
Pale silvery yellow with golden glints. Clean piercingly fresh nose – direct and forthright! Freshly squeezed lemon juice, crisp green apple, grilled hazelnuts. Dry but not austere. Slight creaminess up-front, very fresh and alive. Real depth and substance on the mid-palate.
Score: 17.5/20

NV PIERRE PETERS BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU
Producer: Pierre Peters
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 31 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger.
Very pale silvery lemon in appearance. Steely nose of lemon zest, greengage and crap apple. Dry, slightly chalky in the mouth, limpid, tart green apples, lemony acidity. Real cut and verve!
Score: 16.5/20 

Tasted in Lyon in 2013.  Emmanuel Brochet is a tiny producer with just a few hectares under vine.  If this bottle is any evidence, quality is excellent.

NV EMMANUEL BROCHET CHAMPAGNE EXTRA BRUT ‘LE MONT BENOIT’
Producer: Emmanuel Brochet
Variety: Champagne & Sparkling (40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 9 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow with golden glints. Very fine vigorous bead on pouring. Small bubbles. Attractive nose of acacia, grilled hazelnuts, red apples, grapefruit pith. Moderate autolysis. Smells mature. Dry and elegant palate; not austere in any way. Finishes very long. A very good grower Champagne that is more than a match than any Grande Marque at the same price.
Score: 17+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART THREE - LARMANDIER-BERNIER

Larmandier-Bernier sits at the summit of Champagne’s growers. Based in the village of Vertus in the Côte de Blancs, it produces a range of primarily Chardonnay-based terroir-focused wines from 16 hectares of owned vineyards.

As a grower, Larmandier-Bernier is in stark contrast to the large houses. All of its vineyard holdings are farmed biodyamically, something that is impossible for the big guns sourcing from dozens of growers across the region. Oak barrels are the preferred fermentation and maturation vessel, though two concrete eggs are employed exclusively for the Pinot Noir-based rosé.

In terms of philosophy, Larmandier-Bernier is more aligned with a small Burgundy domaine than Champagne’s larger houses. The traditional Champagne bywords of ‘blending for consistency’ is of little import here compared to that of terroir expression.

There is real quality to be found throughout the entire Larmandier-Berner range and a sense of place that isn’t always evident with the wines of the larger houses. All of the wines show a real mineral edge akin to licking chalk. While dosage levels are low (no greater than 4g/l), there is no sense of austerity in any of the wines, such is the quality of the fruit at the estate’s disposal.

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Premier Cru Pinot Noir fruit from Vertus fermented in concrete eggs. Dosage is 3g/l.
Bright strawberry pink – quite deep in colour. Elegant lifted nose of cranberry, redcurrant rhubarb. Delicate, elegant red-fruited palate. Very bright and lively. Great rosé Champagne!
Score: 17.5+/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LATITUDE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on deeper and richer topsoils in Vertus. The 2011 vintage provides the base for this release, blended with 30% reserve wines from 2004 to 2010. Dosage is 4g/l. Dry, very delicate and elegant. Crisp green apple and chalky minerals. Zesty citrus acidity carries the finish. More mineral that fruity.
Score: 17/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LONGITUDE 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on thin topsoils in Vertus and Cramant. Based on the 2010 vintage with 40% reserve wines.
Lifted nose of whitecurrants, grapefruit. Very delicate, refined and elegant. Lively and very long on the finish. Chalky mineral grip.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER TERRE DE VERTUS 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay. No dosage.
Open and expansive nose of white fruit, touch of pain grillé and hazelnut. Bone dry, delicate. Lemon citrus and minerals (crushed rocks?!). Very long.
Score: 18/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER LES CHEMINS D’AVIZE GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay.
No dosage. Lifted, perfumed nose – floral, acacia. Dry, earthy, racy. Very mineral and tense. Like a young Grand Cru Chablis! Should flower in bottle.
Score: 18.5+/20 

2006 LARMANDIER-BERNIER VIELLES VIGNES CRAMANT GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2006
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Six years on lees.
Open and expansive nose – honeycomb, crème brulée, spice. Dry, elegant and stylish. Plenty of complexity on show here. Quite superb.
Score: 18.5+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART TWO - GOSSET

Gosset is a mid-sized house that occupies a premium position in the marketplace thanks its high
quality and smartly packaged Grande Réserve and Grande Rosé. Recent years have witnessed major change at Gosset, the most significant change being the move from Äy to new headquarters and state of the art production facilities in the heart of Epernay.

In market contrast to Bollinger, Gosset’s former neighbour in Äy, all Gosset wines are fermented in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is blocked for all wines save for the relatively commercial, entry level Brut Excellence. As a result, Gosset’s wines do tend to develop very well in bottle.

There is a common theme of elegance, finesse and harmony across the Gosset range. As the Grande Millésime 2004 and Cuvée Celebris 2002 demonstrate, they have genuine ageing ability and deserve to be ranked among Champagne’s upper echelon.

On evidence of this visit, Gosset is a house on the move (quite literally dare I say!). A combination of slick new packaging and smart new facilities puts it in a good position to take advantage of emerging markets.

NV GOSSET GRANDE BLANC DE BLANCS
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of fruit from the Côte de Blancs and Montagne de Reims. 3 years on lees.
Very fine. Steely, citrusy, green apple. Delicate, taut and racy. Featherweight in texture.
Score: 17/20

NV GOSSET GRANDE RÉSERVE
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 42%, Chardonnay 43%, Pinot Meunier 15%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of 20 different villages, all of which are Premier and Grand Cru. 4 years on lees.
Rich round and elegant with genuine depth and volume. Excellent length.
Score: 16.5/20

2004 GOSSET GRANDE MILLÉSIME
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 45%, Chardonnay 55%)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
9 years on lees.
Rich and round, crème patissiere. Evolving, but not there yet. Honey and acacia. Drinking well now and should develop further.
Score: 17.5/20

NV GOSSET GRANDE ROSÉ
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 34%, Chardonnay 66%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Gosset’s rosé is always a Chardonnay-dominant blend rather than saignée, the aim being to produce a wine that is pale in colour and consistent from on bottling to another. At 12% of sales, it is a key player in the portfolio.
Pale onion skin – gentle pinkish hue. Delicate bouquet of strawberry, spring flowers. Very delicate, elegant and fine.
Score: 17/20

2002 GOSSET CUVEÉ CELEBRIS
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 48%, Chardonnay 52%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Serious nose of spice, ground coffee/mocha, yellow fruits, spiced apple. Quite superb, with its best years ahead of it.
Score: 18/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART ONE - BOLLINGER

This is the first of a series of reports form recent travels through Champagne and Alsace. It was the fourth time the Penguin had visited Champagne, but proved to be a real eye-opener, a chance to get out among the villages and get a genuine feel for the region. At a superficial level, Champagne is about marketing gloss, but dig a little bit further and it is a fascinating region, producers small and large making varied expressions of the world’s greatest sparkling wine.
We start this series with Bollinger, one of Champagne’s big guns. Established in 1829, Bollinger has 164 hectares of owned vineyard, supplemented by fruit that is sourced via contracted growers (roughly 40% is bought in).

As many will no doubt be aware, Bollinger is a Pinot Noir-dominant style characterised by an oxidative notes thanks to partial fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. One should note that the use of wood is not about imparting oak-derived characters, but oxygen exchange.  Average barrel age is 5 years.

Oak is reserved for juice from Premier and Grand Cru fruit, meaning that less than 30% of the must designated for Special Cuvée spends time in wood. This increases up to 100% for vintage bottlings. The folks at Bollinger argue that the slow process of micro-oxygenation via the wood protects the wine. By way of example, no sulphur dioxide is added at disgorgement; it’s simply “not needed”.

What of the wines themselves? This particular tasting was limited to the Special Cuvée and Grande Année 2004 (sadly no sign of the recently released Bollinger RD 2002). This particular showing was a most positive one, both wines displaying a lovely balance of richness, elegance and complexity. Most importantly, there was a genuine freshness to both wines.  There has been talk that current releases aren't meeting the lofty standards one expects of Bollinger, but this showing was extremely positive.

NV BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Minimum of 3 years on lees. Dosage is 9g/l.
Open and complex nose of crème patissière, brioche, honey, acacia and stonefruit. Elegant, delicate and fine. Fades slightly in the glass, but an excellent showing for Bollinger’s volume driver.
Score: 16/20

2004 BOLLINGER GRANDE ANNÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Made exclusively from Premier and Grand Cru fruit. Minimum of 7 years on lees. Dosage is 8g/l. Intense and brooding – powerfiul and elegant at one. A touch closed perhaps? Certainly not as open or giving as the Special Cuvée at this point in time. Pinot Noir drives both the bouquet and palate. Tightly coiled and needing time. Will reward patience.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 SONS OF EDEN 'FREYA' RIESLING - IN THE FLESH!

The 2011 vintage in southern Australia has been much derided in the wine press. The cool and wet conditions of 2011 certainly presented many challenges for vignerons. However, relatively little kudos has been given to some of the vintage’s success stories. In many cool climate regions, Chardonnay was as good as we have ever seen. In our warmer climates, 2011 produced some lovely elegant reds, albeit more medium rather than longer term propositions. Out west, it was yet another excellent vintage with Margaret River Cabernet to the fore.

Riesling also had its success stories. ‘Freya’ Riesling from Sons of Eden was one wine that impressed immensely on release. A couple of years on, it’s in good shape, albeit maturing at a fairly fast pace. The wine has really started to fill out on the palate; soft and fleshy with a gentle underpinning of acidity. There’s lovely aromatic lift and depth on display in a very pretty, Eden Valley sort of a way; this is a wine that’s more than just lemon and lime. Drinking now and over the next 5 or so years.

2011 SONS OF EDEN ‘FREYA’ RIESLING
Producer: Sons of Eden
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 18 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow with green tinges. Delicate bouquet of greengage, grapefruit and lime blossom. Medium bodied, starting to fill out on the palate. Soft, cushioned mouthfeel underpinned by a fine prickle of acidity. Gooseberry, pineapple and grapefruit/lime pith. A touch of tangy citrus grip carries the finish. Very solid though seemingly maturing fairly quickly.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE DES ESPIERS CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SABLET - SPICE UP YOUR LIFE!

The wines of the sprawling villages of the southern Rhône deliver plenty of drinking pleasure at a modest outlay. While generic Côtes du Rhône can be somewhat of minefield, Côtes du Rhône Villages, more specifically named villages, are often worth the extra expense.

We’ve previously seen the excellent basic Cotes du Rhone from the small, organic Domaine des Espiers. The village level wine from Sablet, is a step up in richness and intensity, but in keeping with the style by the (so-called) lesser wine. There’s plenty of juicy, pulpy drinkability on show here, and a modicum of complexity too.

2010 CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SABLET
Producer: Domaine des Espiers
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 9 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Open nose of kirsch, plum liqueur, star anise, liquorice, white pepper. Full bodied, initial attack of sweet red fruit, moving to savoury on the mid-palate. Exotic spice lends complexity on the finish, which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC - WHISPERING GRASS.....

Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc is one of the truly distinctive wines made in Australia. This is no ‘by the rulebook’ stainless steel fermented herbaceous cash cow. The wine sees a combination of new and seasoned oak, as well as Italian acacia. Depending on the vintage, a touch of Riesling and/or Chardonnay is added to the mix, respectively lending aromatic lift and body. The result is a wine that owes little to Sauvignon Blanc, but is a compelling, food friendly dry white.

With a few years in bottle, the 2011 rendition of Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc is taking on complexity. It is arguably the most true to variety of Bannockburn Sauvignon Blancs we have seen in recent years, the cooler conditions perhaps exacerbating the grassier aspect of the wine. Compared to the most recent review of the same wine, it is more true to its core variety.  That said, there’s a lot here for Sauvignon lovers and haters to both enjoy, and sufficient depth to suggest it will continue to develop in bottle for another few years yet.

2011 BANNOCKBURN SAUVIGNON BLANC
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 11 April 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery green. Open aromatic nose of cut grass, chopped herbs, pear, grapefruit, lemon zest. Dry, medium bodied, a Sauvignon-like Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc! Palate flows on from the nose, slightly herbaceous and grassy. Good length and extremely drinkable.
Score: 17.5/20