2010 DOMAINE DU MORTIER ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL 'DIONYSOS' - YOU'RE SO COOL

The central Loire Valley has pretty much a monopoly when it comes to single varietal Cabernet Franc. The appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil set the standard when it comes to the variety. For one reason or another, they tend to be wines appreciated by a relatively select few. Accordingly, the very best examples are very reasonably priced.

Under-ripe Cabernet Franc can be rather unpleasant, with painfully astringent tannins. However, the best examples of the variety display lovely fragrant aromatics, a ripe yet savoury palate, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. These elegant and extremely food friendly wines are well suited to Australia’s warm climate; medium in body and with a natural freshness typical of the best wines of the cool Loire Valley.

This particular example was organically farmed by Domaine du Mortier, a relatively new player in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Slightly reductive at first, it displays the best attributes of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc; a red-fruited nose, stylish palate and bright lifted acidity. To be fair, it is just a youngster, and will benefit from another 4-6 years in bottle. Cabernet Franc, take a bow, you’ve won this drinker over.

2010 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘DIONYSOS’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $34.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Slightly reductive on opening, but blows off with air, rhubarb, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant, pencil shavings. Dry, ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit up-front, graphite, woodsmoke, elegant and medium bodied, ripe fine tannins, well integrated fine acidity on the finish. Quite primary – needs 5 or so years in the cellar.
Score: 16.5/20

2010 CANTINA TERLANO PINOT BIANCO RISERVA 'VORBERG' - YOU'RE THE ONE THAT I WANT!

Pinot Bianco aka Pinot Blanc is a variety that is rarely associated with excitement.  Clean and fresh – yes. Chardonnay-like – perhaps. Exciting – rarely. One exception to the rule is the quite brilliant Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ from northern Italian co-operative Cantina Terlano.

The 2010 rendition of this highly acclaimed wine possesses a greenish yellow colour. The nose is immediately inviting. This is clearly a serious wine, and a highly complex one at that. White peach, pear, lemon/lime zest, freshly chopped herb and minerals ooze out of the glass. In the mouth, the wine is textured, palate caressing and remarkably intense in flavour, yet balanced by finely poised citrusy acidity, a reflection of its alpine origin.

Cantina Terlano’s Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ is a standard bearer for Italian white wine, and very strong evidence to support the argument that Italy is the source of the worlds finest white wines. Certainly, no other country can boast Italy’s diversity. At just under $60 per bottle, it doesn’t come cheap, but for a wine of such quality, it represents excellent value when compared to the likes of white Burgundy and Alsace.

2010 PINOT BIANCO RISERVA ‘VORBERG’
Producer: Cantina Terlano
Variety: Pinot Blanc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alto Adige, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $58.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Inviting aromatic nose of pear, white peach, lemon zest and fresh herbs. Dry, medium bodied crystalline purity, excellent depth of flavour, lovely palate weight underscored by a fine line of acidity, perfectly composed and balanced. Drinking superbly now. More evidence of the qualities of premium Italian white wine.
Score: 18/20

2010 RAVENSWORTH MARSANNE - INTENSE!

Tahbilk Marsanne has long been a staple for many Australian wine enthusiasts. In its youth, Tahbilk Marsanne tends to be rather shy, backward and reticent, fleshing out with bottle age. The 2010 Marsanne from Ravensworth is in marked contrast. Boldly flavoured, intense and powerful, it is a muscular interpretation of Marsanne.

At first glance, one wasn’t completely sure about this wine. With just moderate acdity and a touch of warming alcohol on the finish, it initially came over as a rather awkward. Yet, as the wine opened up and warmed up slightly in the glass, it really started to strut its stuff. Subtle it might not be, but this is a wine that delivers plenty by way of flavour, and is extremely food friendly. At around $20 a bottle, it more than merits the moniker ‘bargain’.

Having perused the producer’s website, it seems that 2011 was the final vintage for this particular wine, with the Marsanne fruit destined for a field blend named ‘The Grainery’. If this particular wine is any evidence, ‘The Grainery’ is a wine that could well be worth following.

2010 MARSANNE
Producer: Ravensworth
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2010
Region: Murrumbateman, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 5 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of peach, honeydew and fig. The palate is similarly bold and intensely flavoured, with a similar spectrum as the nose, crystallised stem ginger. Immensely powerful example of Marsanne, with just enough acidity to hold it in check. Warm alcohol on the finish.
Score: 16+/20

2011 TERZINI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO - 'YOU GET WHAT YOU PAYS FOR'

There is a good number of relatively inexpensive examples Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to be found in the Australian wine marketplace, some of which have gained a sizeable following. While one can secure a smartly packaged inoffensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at the bargain price of $10 per bottle, what can one expect for an outlay of $28?

If the 2011, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Terzini is anything to go by, with Montepulciano as with many things in life, ‘you get what you pays for’. True to the variety, it is inky crimson/magenta colour. The nose is powerful and brooding, yet not without a feminine edge, as floral notes emerge with air. Although not profound, the wine eminently drinkable, silky in texture and deeply fruited. It is a near perfect with rich Italian ragus. Although the wine sits at the riper end of the Montepulciano spectrum, it is compact and well balanced, with no evidence of excess.

2011 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Producer: Terzini
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2011
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Inky magenta. Intense nose of blackberry/blueberry coulis; dark fruit and brooding. Hint of black pepper. Sweet fruited up-front, alluring texture – medium bodied, silky and stylish. Floral notes emege with air. Savoury on the mid-palate, dark fruits (damson, blackberry, blueberry), slightly smoky. Long finish. Not enormously complex, but delivers immense pleasure.
Score: 17+/20

2011 CURLY FLAT CHARDONNAY - CREAM.....

In this particular imbiber’s not so humble opinion, Macedon is one of ,if not the, most exciting regions in mainland Australia for the two great Burgundian varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The likes of Bindi, Epis and Curly Flat produce some of the most refined examples and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir seen in Australia today.

2011 is a rather derided vintage in much of Australia. It was a cool, damp year, one that presented a number of viticultural issues, not the least being the proliferation of rot. Yet, there seems to be a bit of revisionism going on, with some who initially saw little charm in the vintage now acknowledging that there were some real winners in 2011.

While 2011 was a challenging vintage, Chardonnay was a triumph. While Mornington Peninsula veteran Main Ridge didn’t release a Pinot Noir from 2011, proprietor Nat White suggests that the 2011 Chardonnay could be the best ever produced chez Main Ridge.   Anyone who has tasted the 2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay will recognise that it is one of the best white wines ever bottled on these shores.

The team at Curly Flat are equally upbeat about their 2011 Chardonnay. At 13.5% ABV, it’s certainly not a shy and retiring creature. On the nose, it is open, inviting and immediately complex. The bouquet delivers an interesting array of primary fruit and winemaking derived characters. In the mouth, it is quite a ‘worked’ Chardonnay, round and creamy in texture, with fine acidity providing balance and length. It is a good Chardonnay without a doubt, but perhaps not quite up to the standard of the excellent 2010, which seems to have just a touch more structure. That said, lovers of premium Australian Chardonnay will find a lot to like here, and with good reason.

2011 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Curly Flat
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Macedon Ranges
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 29 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow with golden glints. Open nose of honeydew melon, white peach, grilled hazelnuts and vanilla. Round and creamy in texture, extremely drinkable, even on its own. Fine balancing acidity carries the finish. Good quality Chardonnay of a relatively ‘worked’ style. There’s plenty to like here, though it would seem to be best enjoyed in the short to medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PONDALOWIE MT TEMPRANILLO - NEW WAVE

We have looked at previous vintages of the Pondalowie’s unoaked MT Tempranillo in these pages. The 2012 vintages follows suit and is in fine form. It is a wine that illustrates just how well suited Tempranillo is suited to Australia.

As always, Dominic Morris has captured the varietal essence of Tempranillo, unbridled by oak – medium in body, black cherry entwined with cherry cola/sarsaparilla, fine tannins on the finish. It is a supple and savoury wine, made to be enjoyed with food.

If one was to put together a collection of wines that showcase the ‘new Australia’, Pondalowie MT Tempranillo would mostly definitely be in the mix; moderate alcohol, savoury in character, food-friendly and ever-so drinkable. Isn’t that what most of us want from a bottle of good wine?

2012 MT TEMPRANILLO
Producer: Pondalowie Vineyards
Variety: Tempranillo
Vintage: 2012
Region: Bendigo
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date Tasted: 28 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Crimson to the core. Black cherry, plum and ‘cherry cola'. Medium bodied, well poised, glossy texture, excellent fruit intensity in the black cherry, sarsaparilla mode. Finishes long and savoury with gentle chalky tannins. Lots to enjoy now, but should develop further complexity with additional bottle age.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 DOMAINE RICHAUD CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE - PRODUCER, PRODUCER, PRODUCER

In France, as anywhere, producer is key. Appellation is only a guarantee of origin, not of quality. In the enormous Côtes du Rhône AOC, this assertion is particularly true. From dilute and thoroughly uninspiring wines to would-be Chateauneuf-du-Pape such as Château de Beaucastel’s Coudoulet de Beaucastel, it is a region of immense scale and range in quality.

There is also the question of cépage. Many of the larger negociant bottlings (including those of Guigal and Delas) are Syrah dominant. They are quite different beasts to the many Grenache-heavy Côtes du Rhônes. This particular imbiber admits to being rather impartial to Grenache, a sometimes derided variety that can veer toward confectionary flavours if not handled correctly.

This particular Côtes du Rhône, from Cairanne-based Domaine Richaud showcases the appellation in the best possible light. By all accounts, the domaine references the great Chateauneuf-du-Pape estate Château Rayas as its benchmark. Those familiar Rayas will know that is recognised for producing 100% Grenache wines of great finesse, elegance and aromatic complexity.

This particular wine doesn’t quite ascend to those heights, but it is a superior Côtes du Rhône. It maintains a lovely balance of sweet up-front fruit, floral aromatics, spice and a hint of the wild. While not enormously complex, there is sufficient depth and structure to suggest that it should hold and indeed develop in bottle for a further 2-3 years.

2012 CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE ‘TERRE D’AIGLES’
Producer: Domaine Richaud
Variety: Grenache et al (Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Counoise)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 15%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 10.00 Euros
Date tasted: 10 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Open nose of cherry confiture/kirsch, raspberry, floral notes, meaty/gamey, fennel and thyme. Quite a pretty nose. Sweet fruited up-front, very soft tannins, quite luxurious. Does not show its 15% ABV! Savoury mid-palate leading to a spice-laden finish. Superior glugging Côtes du Rhône – little to complain about!
Score: 16/20

2009 MERLIN MOULIN-A-VENT 'LA ROCHELLE' - CLOSED FOR BUSINESS

Olivier Merlin is one of a number of highly respected producers from other regions to have commenced operations in Beaujolais in the past decade or so. Regarded as one of the leading lights of the Maconnais, Merlin crafts wines from two of the leading crus in Beaujolais, Fleurie and Moulin-a-Vent.

This particular wine is produced on the granitic outcrops of Moulin-a-Vent. From the excellent 2009 vintage in Beaujolais, it displays typical damson and dark cherry fruit underpinned by stony minerality. At present, the wine desperately needs air, and seems a little bit ‘locked down’. There is quality here, but it would seem that the wine is in a slightly obdurate mood, needing another 2-3 years to open up.

2009 MOULIN-A-VENT ‘LA ROCHELLE’
Producer: Olivier Merlin
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 17.00 Euros
Date tasted: 9 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright damson red. Slightly closed nose; damson, violet, dark cherry. Medium bodied, savoury and dry. Perhaps going through a slightly closed phase? Mineral/stony edge. Although not open for business at the moment, there is quality on show here. Sour cherry acidity carries the finish.
Score: 15.5++/20

2011 DOMAINE DU MORTIER ST JOSEPH 'SOULANE' - PEPPER!

St Joseph and Crozes Hermitage stand out as the two ‘go to’ appellations for those seeking value in the northern Rhône. While the wines of St Joseph tend to be earlier maturing than those of Cornas, Côte Rotie and Hermitage, the best examples capture the peppery essence of northern Rhône Syrah.

Such is the case with the 2011 St Joseph ‘Soulane’ from Domaine du Mortier. The wine delivers cherry/raspberry coulis overlaid by a gentle layer of cracked black pepper, floral lift lending aromatic complexity. Two years on from vintage, it’s a touch on the young side, and desperately needs food, preferably steak au poivre, venison or pigeon.

2011 ST JOSEPH ‘SOULANE’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2011
Region: Northern Rhône, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 18.00 Euros
Date tasted: 8 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Inky raspberry red. Inviting nose of cherry/raspberry coulis, cracked black pepper, lilac and violets. Medium bodied, elegant, sweet fruited up-front quickly moves to savoury on the mid-palate. Liquorice, quite meaty. Noticeable peppery spice on the finish. Essence of northern Rhône Syrah.
Score: 16/20

2009 LAPALU BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES - GENRE DEFYING

We tend to associate Beaujolais Villages with light, inoffensive, brightly fruited wines. That definition might hold true for most examples, but it certainly doesn’t for the wines of Jean-Claude Lapalu. His 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ‘Le Rang du Merle’ transcends the appellation and, in turn, one’s expectations.

14.5% ABV for a Beaujolais Villages puts this wine very much in the super-heavyweight division. Yet, this is not a clumsy or overdone wine in any sense. The bouquet is at one arresting and complex; an inviting array of floral, game and summer fruits. On the palate, the wine is rich and exuberant, yet never flirts with excess. The alcohol, while high, is barely perceptible, addS a touch of glycerol and weight in the mouth, but nothing more.

Wines like this provide ample evidence that Beaujolais is a region undergoing a slow and positive revival. It is by no means cheap for a Beaujolais Villages – around 15 Euro from one of Lyon’s finest wine retailers – but nor should it be cheap as it is an outstanding example of its type.

Many draw a link between the wines of Beaujolais and its northern neighbour, Burgundy. However, as with many quality Beaujolais, this is a wine that shares more in common with the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône Valley south of Lyon. In time, perhaps we will be happy to appreciate the wines of Beaujolais as fine wines in their own right, not for their ‘Burgundian’ or ‘Rhône-like’ nature.

2009 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES ‘LE RANG DU MERLE’
Producer: Jean-Claude Lapalu
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 15.00 Euros
Date tasted: 7 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Medium cherry red. Thick legs. Open, rich and brooding nose – profound even – animal fur, game, liqueur cherry, damson, floral notes (lilac). Rich, powerful and mouthfilling. NOT for those seeking typicity at this level, but extremely impressive for its power, richness and overall balance. Although it is a ‘big’ wine, it displays balance and harmony. Quite a remarkable wine that redefines Beaujolais Villages.
Score: 17++/20